383 build

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aznpersuasion

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ya, everything felt great still. ok, maybe ill just do that. thanks for all the advice! btw ive filled out and ordered a blackbear ecu. super pumped.
 

lesterl

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Its your truck, do what you want, but like I said when I had my 96 Sierra done, it was just top end work and it ran fine.... just run some cheap break in oil to help flush the crud out and change it out.....
 

aznpersuasion

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right, well ill listen to sage advice. plus if i can save money and still have it run well no argument here.
 

lesterl

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Getcha some good gaskets for the top end, the last set I used was a Felpro permadry Plus, steel core, rubber coating, felt like a million bucks......
 

amtronic1

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Bearings look great for being exposed to coolant/oil combo. I would button up the bottom end with a new rear main seal. On the top end, I think you don't even need a ridge reamer, just use a pocketknife to scrape off the ring of carbon around the rim. Keep an eye out for cracks near the head bolt holes. If you kept the lifters in order then drop them back in, if they are all mixed up my opinion would be new lifters. They are rollers but still get a wear pattern established after that many miles.
Hand lapping the valves is all that is needed, I wouldn't use a drill.
 

aznpersuasion

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Ya I ordered a New rear and front seal. And I have new valve stem oil seals too
 

aznpersuasion

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after looking at the bearings further it looks like they have some slight oil swipe. so im probably just going to replace them to be on the safe side. i was avoiding it because ive never replaced bearings and dont wanna jack up the clearances.
 

amtronic1

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You have a micrometer set or are you going to use the string to set clearances? Since you have an automatic, thrust bearing clearance isn't an issue.
 

aznpersuasion

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Sweet so I just gotta worry about journal clearances. I was gonna use plastigauge since I dont have access to a nice set if mics
 

aznpersuasion

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The two worst are these. Number one main

#1&2 rods, #1 being the worst


And yes I figured string was plastiguage :)
 

aznpersuasion

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does anyone know for sure what the 99' vortec cams specs are? finding them are like looking for a unicorn. so far this is what i found:

Intake:
Opening Closing Duration
.004 14 BTDC .004 61.5 ABDC 255 Degrees
.050 13 ATDC .050 22.5 ABDC 190 Degrees
Inlet Centerline 106.25 Degrees
Max Lift .275 X 1.5 = .412
max lift .275 x 1.6 = .440
Exhaust:
.004 62 BBDC .004 24 ATDC 266 Degrees
.050 31.5 .050 16 BTDC 195 Degrees
Exhaust Centerline 115.75 degrees
Max Lift .281 X 1.5 = .423
maz lift .281 x 1.6 = ..450
Lobe Separation 111 Degrees
 

aznpersuasion

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got my summitracing (pacesetter) shorty headers today along with MSD cap and rotor and new front and rear main seal. the gibson cat back system is still in shipping.
 

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aznpersuasion

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Got one head ready for new guide seals and lapping job tomorrow
 

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amtronic1

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Some roller rockers sure would look nice there.
 

aznpersuasion

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anyone know where i can get machinist dye? everytime i asked the chains about it they looked at me like a ****ing retard and then proceeded to tell me itll take like a week to come in. any place like homedepot or lowes or anything?
 

aznpersuasion

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Think I could just wing it without the dye? Only one valve leaks a little bit. The rest im ginna do just because im right there. I dont wanna wait a week for such a small job. maybe just sharpie the seat and grind away? see where the sharpie is taken off?
 
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amtronic1

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Sharpie should do just fine. All its for is to show you your progress.
 
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