MPG's

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boostaholic

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15.86 hand calc'd, I'm curious to see if changing the diff fluids to rp will help.
 

the.bear

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Increase in performance & gas mileage

I installed K&N Performance Intake, Edelbrock Shorty Headers, replaced muffler with Borla flow through with no baffles. I use Lucas Gas Treatment called Upper cylinder cleaner & lubricant, I get 17 / 18 highway @ 75 miles an hour. I've got a 100 mile round trip commute and I'm pretty happy with the results on my Hoe.
 

speedr1023

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i installed the hypertech ppIII and the volant cai and I didn't get any mpg difference. I'm still averaging around 14-14.5
 

Dianne Skinner

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1999 Tahoe Z71 2 door. Florida vehicle. Stock L31, clean, carefully _dealer_ maintained since new. 130K miles. Superchips re-tuned (performance.) K&N intake tubing w/cold outside air flow inlet doubled in volume area w/hole custom cut in RF fender. (Do the math..... stock intake system runs out of gravity air flow cold intake volume potential on 5.7 litre at appx 4700 RPM and starts sucking hot air from whereever it can get it, or just starves!) Most all small town driving, averaging 12-15 miles/trip. Some minor 4 wheeling (pasture duty) during most tankfulls. Some trailer. Always used premium gas since new (eeeek!!) 285/16 tires. That should pin down the got and the use side. Now for the mileage..... appx 12.5 MPG new and appx 12.5 MPG every tankfull since! I drive to Wisconsin and Wyoming hunting most years...... high 14s MPG average at 80 MPH +/-. This is a helpful forum.
 

2001Yuke

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I'm at 63k, would swapping out the plugs and/or wires show a mileage increase? Anything helps at $4.25/gal and 12 MPG.
 

Dianne Skinner

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Good morning Yuke..... You have asked a very complex question, if you are looking for a precisely accurate and useful answer, considering performance. I'll give you a taste of one person's educated opinion following. Spark plugs are the very best and most accurate indicator of relative efficiency and performance potential in a non-diesel internal combustion engine, that is easy to see and interpret. Here goes a short course..... First go to the auto parts store and buy 10 (2 extras) spark plug gaskets. You will also need a piece of cardboard with a drawing of the engine, each of the eight cylinders numbered and the front/rear clearly marked. (you do not want to mix up the plugs) Also, you will need a spark plug gap gauge. Next, go back to your shop and allow your engine to cool off. Then, twist each spark plug wire end slightly and _carefully_ so as not to break anything, to break the bond between the wire boot and the spark plug insulator, then remove each wire, twisting and pulling. _Make certain that you dont get them mixed up_! Now loosten all eight plugs, holding your socket straight, so as to not break a plug. Loosten each about 1 and 1/2 turns. This procedure is meant to clear away any debris that might fall into the cylinder when the plugs are removed. Now, crank over the engine for about one or two seconds. Next, remove each spark plug and place it in the appropriate numbered spot on your cardboard. Now lets eat some of this fruit that we have picked! Note the color of each spark plug. With your plug gap gauge, measure the gap _very carefully and accurately_ of each plug and write it down by that cylinder/plug on your cardboard. Look up on the internet a spark plug color chart. Compare yours to those. This will give you a perfect idea, without guessing, of exactly how your engine ig firnig and burning. All of the plugs in each cylinder should be roughly the same color and hue in a good running and efficient engine. If not, you need to consider remedy or not. Now you can decide if you need plugs and the correct spark plug for your exact needs. If you do not know the pedigree of your plug wires, replace them then. I could write much more, but you are already probably sick of reading. This exersize will tell you what is going on inside each cylinders under power. There are tweaking remedies for cylinders that are glaringly different than the rest. Good luck!
 

bahollis

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Gonna try something...

Someone posted up a thread about EthosFR, and wanted to know if it really worked. Well, I'm now a guinea pig for the product. I'll post my findings when I have them.

As it is, with my city drive I get about 11.5 MPG average. So we'll see what happens.

http://www.thegassecret.net/

B
 

boostaholic

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Fresh plugs would help yuke, I'd get some ngk tr5s (part # 2238 at any parts store) and gap them to .40. Now would be a good time to learn the timing sequence by removing all the plug wires, makes it alot more fun.
 

JennaBear

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Fuel filter is always a big one to change out on the older vehicles....
 

YukonJacks

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Good morning Yuke..... You have asked a very complex question, if you are looking for a precisely accurate and useful answer, considering performance. I'll give you a taste of one person's educated opinion following. Spark plugs are the very best and most accurate indicator of relative efficiency and performance potential in a non-diesel internal combustion engine, that is easy to see and interpret. Here goes a short course..... First go to the auto parts store and buy 10 (2 extras) spark plug gaskets. You will also need a piece of cardboard with a drawing of the engine, each of the eight cylinders numbered and the front/rear clearly marked. (you do not want to mix up the plugs) Also, you will need a spark plug gap gauge. Next, go back to your shop and allow your engine to cool off. Then, twist each spark plug wire end slightly and _carefully_ so as not to break anything, to break the bond between the wire boot and the spark plug insulator, then remove each wire, twisting and pulling. _Make certain that you dont get them mixed up_! Now loosten all eight plugs, holding your socket straight, so as to not break a plug. Loosten each about 1 and 1/2 turns. This procedure is meant to clear away any debris that might fall into the cylinder when the plugs are removed. Now, crank over the engine for about one or two seconds. Next, remove each spark plug and place it in the appropriate numbered spot on your cardboard. Now lets eat some of this fruit that we have picked! Note the color of each spark plug. With your plug gap gauge, measure the gap _very carefully and accurately_ of each plug and write it down by that cylinder/plug on your cardboard. Look up on the internet a spark plug color chart. Compare yours to those. This will give you a perfect idea, without guessing, of exactly how your engine ig firnig and burning. All of the plugs in each cylinder should be roughly the same color and hue in a good running and efficient engine. If not, you need to consider remedy or not. Now you can decide if you need plugs and the correct spark plug for your exact needs. If you do not know the pedigree of your plug wires, replace them then. I could write much more, but you are already probably sick of reading. This exersize will tell you what is going on inside each cylinders under power. There are tweaking remedies for cylinders that are glaringly different than the rest. Good luck!

Seems like a lot for nothing, If your going to go through all that, why not change them now rather than going through the whole proceedure in another year, then you don't have to make cardboard pic of your engine, just buy the pluga and wires and change them out one at a time....
 

Dianne Skinner

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The point of this exersize, since you are likely to change the plugs anyhow, is to get some insight on ezactly how your engine is performing, one cylinder compared to each of the others..... not to waste the cardboard, or waste the pencil, or to increase the risk of being five minutes late to your Mensa meeting! For those who care, every cylinder does not burn as cleanly as the others, indicating other problems (cooling, wiring, fuel flow, mixture distribution, port obstruction, load stress breakdown, computer errors, hot spots, etc.) to the thinking (and caring) person.
 

2001Yuke

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Boost it has individual coils, how could I screw that up? haha Well I am changing out my oil and swapping plugs tomorrow. I went camping this last weekend about a 450 mile round trip averaged 15.1MPG. So now I have a baseline. I will also do the filter cause its cheap. It cost me $97.01 to fill today. I hate this luxury sometimes.
 

2001Yuke

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I just checked out that Ethos website and that stuff looks pretty interesting. I guess it would have to work especially if they are giving away $100 of gas coupons.

If I gained 20% that would take me from my 12.5mpg to 15 mpg meaning another 50 miles per 20 gallons. Meaning technically 3 free gallons per 20 gallons or at $4.20/gal $12.60 per 4oz of fluid. You pay $54 for 32oz of their stuff, so $1.69/oz. So I would be saving $5.84 per 20 gallons.

Has anyone tried it? I hate listening to testimonials on websites, how biased can that be?
 

crazyhoe

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justin tunes ??

Hey guys were can I get this tune for my hoe? whats the sight??
 

radkon

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Well I guess I can weigh in on this thread now that I've owned the 03 Hoe since Feb.

When I picked it up the avg mpg read 15.5 I reset it and drove it about 350 miles and it read 15.8 mpg. I still had another 300+ miles to drive (MN to OH) with another adult in the car and no luggage. I started tuning it with HP tuners for an hour or two and got the hwy mileage up to 16.5. I've since let my wife drive it about 80% city and she avgs about 16.5 with it. I get in and check the tune every once in awhile knowing I still have some work to do on the tune. We recently made a 1500 mi round trip in it with a full load of luggage and kids avg'd 18.5 on flatland (OH, NC and SC) but only 12 in WV (damn hills!) Overall avg was 17.1 mpg.

Summary: 16.5 city 17.1 hwy (18.5 if flat) 03 Hoe 5.3l stock except for K&N drop in and tuned by me.
 

2001Yuke

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Radkon thats awesome, my Yukon is stock except for a torsion bar crank and 33x12.5-17 Tires (didn't help my MPG much :) I averaged 15.5 from Milwaukie, OR to Bend, OR there were lots of hills. Did you notice a performance increase with the drop in? I had thought about picking one up.
 
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