Some '00 model 5.3s had the etc (electronic throttle control) system, rather than the typical throttle cable. Other than that, I believe everything else is the same.
I agree with 95TwinTT. Sometimes the baffles in the tank deteriorate over time and don't hold fuel. The fuel is what keeps the pump running cool, keeping it from burning out.
You can still install a dd unit w/o relocating the hvac controls. But if you want to relocate the controls anyway, all you need to do is extend the harness. No vacuum lines involved.
Here's the DD unit I installed in my previous 1.5 din opening to give you an idea:
Looks good:thumbsup: If you plan on dropping it only an inch or so, you should have enough adjustment left in the factory keys to drop the front about an inch and then just order a set of shorter springs for the rear.
There should be a couple of brackets with felt ends that press against the glass. These can be adjusted to allow more or less pressure against the glass.
The starter circuit is wired in series through the rs system. The starter wire is cut in half with the grn wire from the alarm going to the key side and the purple wire going to the starter side. If it was a bad connection, the truck would have problems starting with the key also.
An open...
Use the 12530282 motor. It has the Vortec heads, roller valvetrain, and one-piece rear main. This should be the direct replacement for your model. The other motor uses older style non-vortec heads and a flat tappet cam, and isn't as emissions friendly.
Land Rover would be one of the last SUVs I'd get. Everyone I have ever worked on, sat in, touched, looked at, whatever, has had problems. Even Consumer Reports reviews basically says it in nicer terms that it's a piece of **** all the way around. The one thing I do like about the new ones are...
The system you're describing is aftermarket and sounds like it may be in valet mode. It may be an older system, as most of the newer systems have switched over to toggles rather than the push button style like you have. Depending on the brand and model, there are a couple different ways to put...
Caster angle also plays a part in how much effort is needed to turn the wheels. More angle increases effort while less angle makes it easier to turn the wheel. Along with toe and camber, the caster will also affect how well the vehicle tracks and the effort needed to keep it straight. I'd check...
I had slight issues with mine, but mine is slightly lower than 3/5. I ended up welding on a Flowmaster 10 series with a turndown in front of the rear axle. I'm bringing it out to the side flush with the running boards in front of the rear wheel soon, using a couple rectangular tips side by side.
Brand DOES matter. Cheaper wire won't be true gauge. Cheap 4ga for example, may look like 4 ga, but only because the insulation is thicker. If you compare cheap wire to a good name brand awg wire, you'll notice that the outside diameter may be close to the same size, but the actual conductor...
I love the color man. I had plans to paint one of my previous rides that same color. I think with the color scheme you got going, black wheels would better than silver imo. Frenched plate and welded roll pan looks good bro.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.