Radiator Fans- Stay Stock, or Go Electric?

[sasquatch094]

hhaha.. well man u can only hope for the best. i started to weld stuff when i was about 12?? first oil change about 15.. but im a computer kid, i love computers and learning stuff on the internet. i could tell ya basically anything about cars and i could atleast have a basic if not better description on it.. lol.. ive built 3 duplexs with my dad so i know how to pour concrete, side houses, drywall, anything.. lol.. idk.. lol.. sorry to like shed on you.. good luck with your kids, cars runs in my family.. hopefully yours too

 

[treepete]

OK, I searched all morning for better info on the perma cool and I think I need the 19514
TwinTT, when your wiring failed what was happening? I think these fans suction about 20 amps, was it the fan motor wire that failed or something else?

I like the perma-cool more than the flex-a-lite, becuase its metal, etc more professional looking than plastic.
also, how do you set the thermostat sensor? Does it come preset to like, 170-210 neighborhood?

I like the permacool, but I just cant find a good statistic sheet about it, or installation page. Ill check Jegs and see what they have.

 

[yukondoit]

The electric fan is on my list future mods. Nice setup on those 2 engines.

 

[Mike97]

OK, I searched all morning for better info on the perma cool and I think I need the 19514

I'm pretty sure that's the wrong one. It specifies that it's for pickup and Suburbans with the 17" high core. I would guess that you need the 19416, assuming yours is a late 99 Yukon. But to be sure, you need to measure your radiator core. Then you can order the correct kit.

 

[treepete]

OK I'm double checking the fitment when I get home. I have to take off the shroud for my monthly engine detailing anyway.


I'm just kidding.. I dont do monthly engine detailing.

My yukon dates are weird. In the door jamb, it says it was made in 6/98. But under the hood, it says 1999.
In general, It seems that all the parts I order are for the 1998 Yukon. in my earlier post I did say the wrong PN, sorry about that.

 

[95TwinTT]

OK, I searched all morning for better info on the perma cool and I think I need the 19514
TwinTT, when your wiring failed what was happening? I think these fans suction about 20 amps, was it the fan motor wire that failed or something else?

I like the perma-cool more than the flex-a-lite, becuase its metal, etc more professional looking than plastic.
also, how do you set the thermostat sensor? Does it come preset to like, 170-210 neighborhood?

The factory uses crimp on solderless connectors. I had a relay failure because the wires overheated and melted the relay case. I am not at the shop right now, where I work on the Hoe, but I will be there tonight. I think I saved the burnt pieces. I could look at them and give you wire colors to check out later tonight.

I think it would be a extremely simple thing to go over those connections to make sure they are solid. I understand using the crimp on connectors for making life easy, but care must be taken to be sure they are tight.

The set pot for the thermostat is under a rubber plug on the top of the radiator bracket, on the flat panel facing upward, that the fans are mounted in.

 

[Mike97]

You really have to be careful when using crimp on terminals. If you don't crimp enough, you will have too much resistance at the connection. Which will cause it to heat up. If you crimp it too much you crush the wire and make it weaker, which also causes higher resistance and too much heat. You also never want to use crimp terminals on solid wire. It will always fail.

Where I work, the people who build cables for us have to test their crimp tools daily to check the calibration of them. There is a specification that has to be met. If you want to make sure those crimps won't fail, solder each crimp and make sure that it's a good solder joint. Or you can cut all the crimp terminals off and just solder all the connections.

 

[95TwinTT]

TwinTT, when your wiring failed what was happening? I think these fans suction about 20 amps, was it the fan motor wire that failed or something else?

I like the perma-cool more than the flex-a-lite, becuase its metal, etc more professional looking than plastic.
also, how do you set the thermostat sensor? Does it come preset to like, 170-210 neighborhood?

OK, here's the scoop on what happened to my Perma Cool.

Under the passenger side of the Perma Cool fan's assembly, there is a control module that is black, with a Perma-Cool sticker on it. Part number 18905. It has a white multipole 8 pin socket on it. Looking at it with the trim pot on the right hand side, the left upper pin of that connector will have a yellow wire going in. That is the pin that was burned brown and the relay near by had the yellow wire contact melted.

I don't believe that the control module was the culprit here, but rather a situation where one of the fans became impaired and the overload took it out. I did not catch the actual event, but I did have to replace the shear pin on the driver side fan at one point.

The only thing I can think of was that that fan got caught on the K&N air flilter on the drivers side hair dryer. If in fact that was the cause, the Perma Cool in inocent of something, I don't know what just yet. They do seem to be a little light on the internal wiring around the relays. They supply you with what looks like a 8 gauge wire for the power and then drop to 16 gauge on some of the interior stuff.

Since "the event", I have not had any issues. They use a thermister fastened to the sheet metal between the fans to sense the heat of the radiator. It is a very positive way to do it and I'm sure you would like the setup.

I would take the time to solder the crimp on leads inside, but that only takes a few minutes. Or better yet, just eliminate the crimp on's and solder to the relay post's direct.

I can try to see what info came with the fans, if your interested. Let me know. Good luck.....

 

[treepete]

Yeah, any additional information would be great, and I appriciate all your help on this. It is a really nice looking fan unit when I see it on your 95. Maybe you have too much engine in your truck, and thats why the K&N threw itself into the fan blades.

I think that I will measure the rad, order the unit, and when it comes in the mail, I'll put some of my IPC Class 3 training to work, and remove all crimpage, and solder everything properly.

Well, I'm sold on the perma-cool. So tonight, I measure and order.

 

[treepete]

TwinnTT

ok I measured the radiator and its 34x19"

do I need 19515 or 19516?


NVM its 19515 ordered it from Summit 520 shipped. Ill tell you dudes when I get it.

thanks for all your help everyone. (again)

thanks,
Pete

 

[JKmotorsports]

Electrics are the way to go. More hp/tq, colder a/c, more mileage. Here's a thread to my electric fan install. It's on a newer model, but should give you some insight/ideas.

 

[95TwinTT]

ok I measured the radiator and its 34x19"

do I need 19515 or 19516?


NVM its 19515 ordered it from Summit 520 shipped. Ill tell you dudes when I get it.

thanks for all your help everyone. (again)

thanks,
Pete

Yup, 19515 is the one. Sorry I a bit late getting back with the info, You will get a copy of this manual anyway.

I know you will like it. Give a shout if any questions come up.

 

[treepete]

Ok gents,
I got the Perma-Cool in the mail.

For the first step of the directions, I took off the upper fan shroud.

I have already generated a pre-question... Can i dump my dist block that resides next to the battery? the reason I ask is that the wiring is too short to reach properly and such, and I think it would look cleaner if I replaced it with a longer one and rerouted it properly(to the fuse center). The dist block isnt needed, is it? I can just come right off the battery? any suggestions, or ideas on this?

 

[treepete]

ok, I took a few pics of the fans, here they are.

95TwinTT, I have inspected all the wiring and crimps that I could see without dissassembling everything, and it all looks fairly well crafted.

Anyway, after I figure out removing the lower fan shroud and the fuse box wire situation, I think Ill be ready to start. I hope to knock it out this afternoon, after Laura wakes up (night shift nurse)

JK nice thread on your fan install. that will help.

heres some pics of the PC 19515 for your enjoyment.

 

[sasquatch094]

how much did those run you about????

 

[treepete]

520 shipped.

 

[treepete]

Need help asap, like right now...and sorry..

Hey guys, I hate to sound panicked, but I need some help with this asap.

the fan install itself was unremarkable. But, Im having trouble with the turn on wire. I cant find the +12v on the ac dryer unit.
dont ask why it gets hooked up there, it just does, I guess... I have a green and black going into the dryer unit. I assume the green is hot, but I cant get a reading with the voltmeter on the wire.
I have the key turned to the acc psoition, and all my junk comes on, but I dont know where to hook this turn on wire. the green has no reading when I have the acc turn on.
Im standing here with Jiminey, and paying him to help me, and we're standing here stumped. can anyone help me real fast?
I PMd you guys with my phone number... if anyone else wants it Ill pm you to walk me thru it.

Permacool fans is the project.

thanks,
Pete

 

[treepete]

bump, need help...

 

[treepete]

ok I got it. THanks Twin TT for the call.

Ill post back tomorrow about all of this.


Thanks again, Del.

Pete

 

[95TwinTT]

What you should do while you are still in the mood, is make up a switch on or under the dash, that would switch from auto, to manual.

I use LED tipped switches that turn green in one direction and red in the other, so I can tall at a glance if it's on or off. I added a picture here of a little panel I added to my Camaro for some added featurs.

These switches are sold at McMaster-Carr. They are like Graingers on steroids. You can go to their web site and search for page 848.

Part number 7157K26 will get you a DPDT On/On, switch. You just have to specify red/green.

You hook that blue wire from the Perma Cool to the center pins on the switch and one side for Auto to the Green wire from the A/C clutch. You can also pick it up at the low pressure switch. The other side is just to +12 with ignition. Then you can leave it in auto all the time and if you ever get into a over heat situation, you can just turn it to manual.

I got to thinking about why they might want the fans on when the A/C is going, it could have an adverse affect on the thermister's ability to accurately know what the radiator is doing. With the two radiators doubled up, the settings for the engine cooling could be skewed.

You can use any double pole double throw switch, I just prefer the LED's, to know if they are on or off in the dark. lol

Let me know if you want to do the LED and I will look up the loading resistor for the LED.

Oh, and I added a shot of the garage, just for laughs. Have fun..

Del