Perplexed by brake system rebuild

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KyLoon

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Just got my '96 2 Dr LT out of the shop where they replaced
calipers, drums, master cylinder, rotors, slave cylinders, and lines.
The pedal has a lot of travel and feels spongy.

WTH?
 

KyLoon

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I drove it out of the shop about two miles applying the brakes often.
Not pleased with the pedal I drove it straight back and the mechanic
assured me that I had a normal pedal.

I also believe it to be air in the lines. He said he had a helluva time
getting a decent master cylinder from his supplier.
First two failed. Supplier said that even though they were brand new
they were Chinese made and pretty much garbage (not surprising).
Supplier recommended that he go with GM reman'd as they were
rebuilt in the US and superior.

Just out of curiosity. What is the braking bias on an LT with disc fronts
and drum rears?

BTW, thanks for sharing your expertise. You help a lot of folks. :thumbs:
 

Ice98

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Amazing that you had to have that much done to begin with, that's a bummer


really does sound like something isn't adjusted right or their is air somewhere in the lines
 

KyLoon

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It is a '96 with 215K. The rear slaves were leaking. The rear drums were done.
As were front rotors. The brake fluid was black, etc. I want the wifey to
get in this truck and feel good about driving it.

There can be no other explain with all new parts. Has to be air in the system.

What does a bad booster look like?
 

lesterl

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Hard pedal - bad booster, also rough idle....

I would get the brakes bled some more, also make shure the rear shoe adjusters are keeping the shoes close to the drums and not taken way in.....
 

KyLoon

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None of those symptoms. Engine is strong, smooth, no burbling or surging.
Didn't know that dead booster = hard pedal. Good to know.

No codes either. Just plugged in my scan tool.
 

lesterl

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Yeah, go out before you start it next time and pump the brakes a few times, the pedal will become hard as you bleed off the retained vacume and it will be much harder to apply stopping power....
 
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