Ed Blown Vert
Full Access Member
I would really like a set. I want both High/Low, but heard it isn't a good idea.
HID Kits: Good Company?
- Thread starter hazer396
- Start date
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burbanman03
Full Access Member
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i got the slim ballest kit low and fog i did the 55w in low and 35w in fog 1200k fog and 800k lows
i got the slim ballest kit low and fog i did the 55w in low and 35w in fog 1200k fog and 800k lows
WhiteHoeZ71
New Member
Hey Burbanman, have you received and installed your kit from ddmtuning.com? If so, hows your experience with them so far? I was about to order some from either ddmtuning or one of the ebay sellers hidgate or turelyyours since they are all in the states. Thanks in advance!
APEX320
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Check out Beamers, They are pricey but well worth it!!!
Rollin Thunder
Full Access Member
my silverado has a great cutoff for stock housings, never been flashed. Drove by in the corvette and its only glaring if your right beside it. But to be honost. The corvette has stock HIDS that glare more. I have a company retrofitting s2000 projectors in to the silverado low beams though, I cant freaken wait.
I have the DDM hi/lo H13 set in my 07 Denali and they work great. It works by an actuator that physically shifts the bulb's position within the housing to achieve the OEM high beam pattern. I must say that it works very well. I can't comment on longevity but the solenoid design used seems pretty reliable. One significant advantage that the Hi/Lo H13 kit has that others don't (I could be wrong on this though), is that it came with an integrated harness designed to be wired directly to the battery. From my understanding this is usually an optional add on. Instead of using the existing headlight harness for power, it simply uses the harness for the on/off and hi/lo signal but powers the lights directly from the battery. This not only eliminates the risk of a melted harness, but also ensures a reliable ignition of the bulbs due to effectively limitless current.
If you decide to install an HID kit, I highly recommend removing the entire front end rather than just the headlight housing. I was able to route my wires, ballasts, and igniters in a much more attractive and secure manner than I would have been able to otherwise. The only thing I would do differently is go for the full size ballast (not slim). Space is not an issue, so a separate ballast and igniter is unnecessary.
Rollin Thunder
Full Access Member
H11 is correct. 4500k is perfect:cool2:
If you get a 55W 4500k HID kit you are gonna run into some issues;
1. Is that your low beam harnesses will melt unles you get heavy duty H11 connectors or a relay harness for the kit.
2. Your low beams aare gonna be WAY to bright, about 5000 lumens which will piss people off due to the glare from non projecor OEM housings.
Trust, the 35W kit is a smarter decision, 4500k kits is as bright as HID'd get, my 35W 6000k kit is bright as hell, talkless of a 35W 4500k kit!
1. Is that your low beam harnesses will melt unles you get heavy duty H11 connectors or a relay harness for the kit.
2. Your low beams aare gonna be WAY to bright, about 5000 lumens which will piss people off due to the glare from non projecor OEM housings.
Trust, the 35W kit is a smarter decision, 4500k kits is as bright as HID'd get, my 35W 6000k kit is bright as hell, talkless of a 35W 4500k kit!
Ed Blown Vert
Full Access Member
I like the idea. How fast to they switch to highs? I wouldn't mind this option if they last at least a year. Replacing the bulb yearly would be the price I would pay to have high/low lights.
Do you have any pics of the install??
i would need a relay kit for the 35W? how would i lower the power??
sorry ima noobs..
and has anyone seen escalade retrofits on a tahoe?
Rollin Thunder
Full Access Member
1. Actully 55w use less power once lit, and both the 35W and 55W kit use 6 amps to turn on. So no worrys really. 6 in 1 half dozen in the other, if you will.
2. I agree, but Hids are HIDs they are all bright. But just an FYI, the higher up the kelvin temp you go the lower the output gets but the worse the glare gets. 43-4500k is the lowest glaring HID, but has the most output. the Bluer you get the worse your glare gets, 10000k may look brighter than 4300k but actully you have less light and piss more people off. So your 6000k actully glare more than my 4300ks. blue=bad for cops and glare.
Yeah Bluer is more cops but mine isn't blue like it look in the pics, its just the cam that makes it look like that!
I think all HID kit color temperatures vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. One's 600k may look like another 8000k and so on, Apexcone 6000k kits have like no blue, I think I may have preferred a little more blue than what I got buy now that i'm done with 6000k I love em regardless!
I think all HID kit color temperatures vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. One's 600k may look like another 8000k and so on, Apexcone 6000k kits have like no blue, I think I may have preferred a little more blue than what I got buy now that i'm done with 6000k I love em regardless!
Rollin Thunder
Full Access Member
you are exactly right on that. They very. I had a 4300k kit from Higher level auto. Was bright yellow (for highs) and a 6000k (for lows until I changed them) and the 6000k was deep blue (like 8k) and the 4300k was yellow like 3000k. The 4300ks on the rado are from VVME.
im gonna order mine tommorrow
do you have pics of your silverado's lights?
