Hello to all... Brakes

[MrSlug]

Just wanted to say hi before posting here.

I have a 05 Tahoe LT which I have owned since it was new. Never given me trouble aside from a Power Steering pump which was covered under the warranty. It is a stock truck. The only thing I did was replace the OEM tires with Rugged Trail T/As that have lasted 42K miles (load range E). I know totally overkill, but they last a long time.

The truck has 82K on it and still has the original brakes (pads, rotors, fluid, etc).

No problems as of yet with the brakes.

Is this mileage or higher typical with this vehicle? If so I am shocked.

When it comes time for brakes do you think I will plan on replacing the rotors as well? Planning on this.

What is the typical dealer cost for full brake replacement (pads, rotor's, fluid) and parking brake inspection? I know I know, it will be a rip but if the Chevy parts have lasted this long, it pays for itself.

Thank you to all.

 

[oneradride]

Not to be an ass but most of us are on here to avoid the dealer. You might just call them???

 

[MrSlug]

Not to be an ass but most of us are on here to avoid the dealer. You might just call them???

No offense taken at all. I work a lot of hours and week and I am a single Dad so my time is fairly precious right now. Well that is not true, when it comes to my track and dirt bikes I do everything myself.

I did call them and they told me they can last between 70 to 120K. I am just stunned. Brakes were quoted at 425 an axel.

 

[oneradride]

Unfortunately I think that is about right. I have never had dealer work done on my brakes but my wife’s grandparents got taken for about a grand last time they took their Buick in. I about sh!t my pants.
4 Wheel discs are gravy, if you have an impact it’ll probably take you a little over an hour to do the entire truck. And for 425.00 you can get the best pads and slotted rotors. The ebrakes on these things blow, unless you live on a hill I wouldn’t even mess with it.

BTW welcome to the site.

 

[matt14]

That sounds about right. Brakes can be expensive, but if your brakes are lasting that long, thats good. European cars dont last that long, and a lot of the time, you cannot re-surface there rotors. Also that quote probably is not for repalcement of the rotors, but to have them re-surfaced.Were are you in the Bay? I live in San Leandro. Living in the bay, you spend more money on repairs than say the valley. thats just the way things are

 

[667theneighbour]

My rear discs rusted so bad I had to change them. I replaced all 4 with Cragar drilled and slotted disc for less than what 2 originals cost and me and my brother did it. It was a piece of cake to replace and I'm not a DIY. Just remove the wheel, remove the caliper, remove a locking disc on one of the studs, pull off the disc, f**k the locking disc as you probably broke it pulling it off, put on the new disc, put on wheel, done. Did I forget anything? You should jack up the car first.

 

[FishNJ]

OEM pads have been lasting folks 80,000-100,000 miles. Rotors depend on how much salt they have on the roads... I just replaced mine after 130K... cost me $330 to do pads, rotors, and fluid. I wouldnt use anything other than OEM pads, and stay away from the cheap eBay/japanese/chinese rotors...

 

[Polecat]

it may also be a simple turn rotors and add new ACDelco pads...something a reputable shop can do, that doesn't charge 'dealer' prices. I have a guy in town that does mine, I get ACDelco parts, take them to him to install (if I don't have time,etc) and he does it for 1/4 the price.

 

[rockman20]

I just got my Yukon so I have no idea if these are original brakes or not. I checked the pads and I am assuming they are not because they have an orangeish looking backing plate. I was not happy to see the rotors though. Evidently the previous owner didn't do much maintenance or even looking. The rotors are rusted pretty severe about in the middle of them. This ate the brake pad in that area.

I tried removing them at my garage, but I have Chinese tools there and the caliper bolt would not budge. So I grabbed a trusty pipe laying in there. I was able to move the pipe......problem was.......it just bent the ratchet. So this summer I am going to take it out the farm where I have my Huskey/Snap-On tools and access to a 1" impact wrench. I'll get the suckers off or rip the spindle off trying. :lol:

My Yukon had just barely 70,000 on it when I got it.

 

[MrSlug]

Unfortunately, my job as an Escalation engineer keeps me in the bay area where are the tools are plated with unubtainium.

Hence the Crazy prices. I know I can do the Rotors and Pads myself, it is just the brake fluid that will be a PITA with the force distributed system and ABS. With a 4 year old in the car, don't want to shade tree it.

I never used slotted or drilled rotors on my track only bike (08 R6) because I found on the GSXR and KAWIs, they tended to cause funny were on the pads. I have stock wheels and tires and so far I am pleased with the stock brake performance.

BTW, very helpful people on this forum with some good advice. Have been reading quite a bit and using search. Hence why I posted this because I could not find a good thread answering this question.

Thanks again.

 

[rockman20]

Unfortunately, my job as an Escalation engineer keeps me in the bay area where are the tools are plated with unubtainium.

Hence the Crazy prices. I know I can do the Rotors and Pads myself, it is just the brake fluid that will be a PITA with the force distributed system and ABS. With a 4 year old in the car, don't want to shade tree it.

I never used slotted or drilled rotors on my track only bike (08 R6) because I found on the GSXR and KAWIs, they tended to cause funny were on the pads. I have stock wheels and tires and so far I am pleased with the stock brake performance.

BTW, very helpful people on this forum with some good advice. Have been reading quite a bit and using search. Hence why I posted this because I could not find a good thread answering this question.

Thanks again.

:lol: I just had to respond to your post! Funny stuff right there!

You are right though on the fluid. I have never completely flushed an ABS system out and the thought scares me. I have done a complete brake job on my 69 Cutlass and that took forever. I didn't have any fancy tools for that besides my dad's leg and me laying under the car with the wrench squirting fluid all over.

I think that I would save the money and do the brakes/rotors myself. Not sure if you have another vehicle, but I would take rotors off and bring them in to a machine shop. Have them true them up if they can, replace the ones that can't be (if any) and then reassemble. Then I would probably have the fluid done by a shop.

Your 4 year old will be happy you saved some green because that means a new mini bike soon! :thumbsup: