Sorry for the length of this post but I’m hoping someone can shed some light on this for me.
I have read every thread I can find on the subject and I have yet to find a valid reason/ fix for the DRL issue on these trucks. Some say (quote) if your alternator is working right, you should get 15.4 to 15.6 volts briefly after a hard start or if the battery has been rundown a little (like listening to the sound system or using lights) before the most recent start. Within a minute, the voltage should settle in between 14.2 to 14.7 volts, dependent on ambient temperatures. After several minutes should settle in about 13.5 to 13.8 volts.there is a voltage spike after starting…He didn't specify whether he meant voltage or current spikes. In any case, apparently the present LEDs are not hardy enough to tolerate these higher voltages.
Others say: (quote) Some GM vehicles apply a pulsed voltage to the Daytime Running Lights (DRL), this pulsed voltage causes LED bulbs to fail quickly, just as the stock filament bulbs also fail quickly in these DRL installations. Use in these applications voids the warranty.
**I have a 2001 Yukon and I tried these bulbs I bought from eBay because they have LED’s in the sides and actually use the housing reflector as they were intended.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&viewitem=&item=320220708591#ebayphotohosting
They looked AWESOME…. for 2 days :cuss: after the second day some were burnt out and others were flashing and just acting bizarre. I loved the look and I want to use them in this application again but I can’t afford to replace the bulbs every 2 days. .
Is it possible to make the voltage here 12 volts ONLY, ALL the time with no pulsing? I have thought about using a regulator for an old 70’s type application or using the DRL B+ for a trigger in a relay to just to close the circuit and run 12 volts form the fuse box, but the seams like a heck of a lot of work.
Does anyone know the true story about the fluctuation in volts/current in these trucks? Please help. :confused2: