Damn DRL's, Burnt Out Again!!!

[jtseltmann]

Hey Guys...i just found this post and I was having the same problem with my 05 Yukon...i've gone through too many LED's in the DRL's...and decided to try this. Wanted to thank you all for posting this good data...

just a note...if you use a regular bulb you fry the resistor...i found that out the hard way...!

 

[burbanman03]

.

i know this is a old post man but i need a number on those drl leds that ebay link is no longer good

 

[oneradride]

I’m glad that link is broken, those lights were cheap and by that I mean built poorly.
These are what you want been running them for over 6 months now with ‘0’ issues.

 

[Big Tap]

On there they don't make an mention of the resistor. Do you think they fixed the problem with the bulbs or do you still have to solder in the resistor so they don't burn out?

 

[oneradride]

You don't need it, these are made specifically for the DRL application

 

[ghostface]

You don't need it, these are made specifically for the DRL application

good looking out, i might have to order a set of these. no more resistors either lol

 

[crash73]

good looking out, i might have to order a set of these. no more resistors either lol

That may be premature based (in theory) on what I've read here. If you buy the 4114-compatible LED's, the voltage, based upon the description of the charging circuit, will still exceed the voltage of the LED by more than a volt for some period of time... When the battery is fully 'charged', the voltage could be 13.2 - 13.8 volts, depending on the year of your vehicle, the condition of the battery, the condition of the alternator/generator, and the condition of the electrical grounds.

No matter how you slice it, voltage will be variable; I don't know how well the LED's hold up +/- a volt or more from their rated voltage. Based on other experiences documented here-in, it's lasted at least 6 weeks... When I replace my 4114's (incandescent) again (soon - one is out as I write this), I usually get a year out of them before they go... I'll be checking out the ground on the nose of the truck next time I replace them... as well as replacing the lens assembly, because the reflective material has flaked off on the passenger side (entirely) and 30% or so remains on the driver side. Since DRL's don't help the driver that much in the daylight, I don't see that the price of the LED to get 'white' (or amber) light is worth it; although they may look 'hot' on the truck.

But then again, that's why I'm replacing the lenses; it looks like my black Denali has 2 black eyes; the reflector loss really affects how it looks...

I think I'd rather find a 12.8 volt output regulator (go back to 3157's), which should be 13.1 to 13.5 volt input to make it work... Anything over that will be converted to heat by the regulator; that seems to be the most correct way to 'fix' this issue, in my opinion.

 

[crash73]

good looking out, i might have to order a set of these. no more resistors either lol

That may be premature based (in theory) on what I've read here. If you buy the 4114-compatible LED's, the voltage, based upon the description of the charging circuit, will still exceed the voltage of the LED by more than a volt for some period of time... When the battery is fully 'charged', the voltage could be 13.2 - 13.8 volts, depending on the year of your vehicle, the condition of the battery, the condition of the alternator/generator, and the condition of the electrical grounds.

No matter how you slice it, voltage will be variable; I don't know how well the LED's hold up +/- a volt or more from their rated voltage. Based on other experiences documented here-in, it's lasted at least 6 weeks... When I replace my 4114's again (soon - one is out as I write this), I usually get a year out of them before they go... I'll be checking out the ground on the nose of the truck next time I replace them... as well as replacing the lens assembly, because the reflective is material has flaked off on the passenger side (entirely) and 30% or so remains on the driver side. Since DRL's don't help the driver that much in the daylight, I don't see that the price of the LED to get 'white' (or amber) light is worth it; although they may look 'hot' on the truck.

But then again, that's why I'm replacing the lenses; it looks my black Denali has 2 black eyes; the reflector loss really affects how it looks...

I think I'd rather find a 12.8 volt output regulator (go back to 3157's), which should be 13.1 to 13.5 volt input to make it work... Anything over that will be converted to heat by the regulator; that seems to be the most correct way to 'fix' this issue, in my opinion.

 

[oneradride]

They look sweet, are still great for safety and are both still working fine. This is what they are designed for according to the description

– “Our Hyper White LED Bulbs are intend design for daytime running light. DO NOT INTEND USE AS TURN SIGNAL!“

And I believe it. Extremely satisfied and would buy them again if I need to, but so far I haven’t needed to. I still stand by THESE are the ones to get.

 

[xav8r]

Will those led bulbs you're talking about work in my 01 Tahoe DRLs?

 

[dpnut2]

They look sweet, are still great for safety and are both still working fine. This is what they are designed for according to the description

– “Our Hyper White LED Bulbs are intend design for daytime running light. DO NOT INTEND USE AS TURN SIGNAL!“

And I believe it. Extremely satisfied and would buy them again if I need to, but so far I haven’t needed to. I still stand by THESE are the ones to get.

I have an '05 tahoe and I would like to get cool white led's for my drl's, do I need to put the 15ohm resister in for the LED's to work?

 

[Big Tap]

I just bought a set. For $40, it's not that big of a deal. I'll let you know how they turn out.

 

[mary900]

I just bought a set. For $40, it's not that big of a deal. I'll let you know how they turn out.

I bought a set for my '08. Hopefully, they'll hold up on the new body style.

 

[Dynamo]

When I bought my '03 Tahoe 2 years ago the DRLs were out so I replaced them right away with whatever they called for at the time (3157, 4157?). Those burned out almost immediately so I just removed the bulbs and did without DRLs until recently when I decided to give the 4114LL bulbs a try. To my surprise they have been fine for the past 2 weeks since I installed them but we'll see.

Anyway, I was thinking of putting amber bulbs in there instead which brought me to this thread. I'm not sure if they have been brought up before but after searching around I found out that there is an amber equivalent to the 4114 bulb, it is a 5702KA bulb. It seems to be a bit rare but I have found a few places online that sell them. Just FYI.

 

[withac]

I wanna follow this and don't see a subscribe to post link so this oughta do it.

 

[Big Tap]

Got these in the mail finally! Only the bigger problem persists....I need to get my Tahoe back!

 

[oneradride]

Bringing this thread back from the dead…. The hell with bulbs.. I’ll give these a shot J For those of us who can’t afford a 40k truck….

 

[NJTahoe]

Not bad, but how did the LED bulbs hold up?

 

[schmidt311]

Hey ONERADRIDE, just a quick thank you for posting this. Just installed the resistors, taped up my terrible soldering skills and turned on the lights. I had purchased multi-directional LEDS with a straight-shooting CREE LED bulbs into the DRLs, and they look awesome! Your sharing of this information has helped considerably. Now to do my dad's Silverado...