What to look for when buying a Tahoe?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

ccvortex

New Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2014
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Greetings all,

I want to buy a 2006 Tahoe but am unfamiliar with the model. This particular one is the Z71 version that has every option possible in the Tahoe.

It is $12,000 and has 112,000 miles on it and is from California (no rust).

How long the trannys and transfer cases last on these usually? I think wife would divorce me if we spent 12k and the transmission died a month later...

What should I be looking for when inspecting it? What are the most common issues?

Thanks all,

Michael
 

Colesdad

New Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2014
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
If your willing to invest a few bucks into the deal to make sure the odds are in your favor. Take it to a good mechanic and have him check it out.

That is the best advice I can give you. I know you hate to spend the cash and find out it's on it's last leg. But wouldn't you rather spend $150 and find out it's a bad deal, than spend 12k to find it out. I'm just throwing $150 out as a guesstimate. Different areas cost different. And even if it comes back that it's a great buy, the money is still buying you peace of mind.
 
Last edited:

ccvortex

New Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2014
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Agree on all points, the issue is this thing is way WAY out in the country and would be really problematic to take to a good mechanic. I was hoping there was a good 10 point check list of the things that normally go wrong on these. If it were a Ford Crown Vic I could QC it in my sleep I know thsoe so well... Tahoe's? No idea at all.

Any advice is appreciated.
 

Colesdad

New Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2014
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
the worst thing I can think of other than obvious rod through the block, engine smoking, or rod knocking, is the bad lifter worn cam issue some of the people who own the vortecs experience.

I had never heard of this before until my wife's 4.8l 144k mile engine began making a chirping/ticking sound just after Christmas. More of a chirp than a tick. EVERYONE, myself and 6 different mechanics with a multitude of experience, thought the exact same thing at first. It has a bad pulley bearing(it really sounds like a chirping noise/bad roller bearing).

Mine kind of sounded like this but not as loudly pronounced https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3J_DnWMYa7g

sound went away at 1500 rpms and was not present on cold days until engine warmed up.

Basically that sound is $600 in parts doing it yourself.
$1100 for a local shop(not dealer) to do it if the cam does not need to be replaced
$1600 if the cam is bad too.

So basically you might as well buy a crate engine or a salvage engine and swap it out.

I'm sure I'm going to catch some flak over the prices above but that is what my local area (Houston) demands.

Cam-$250 stock
set of roller lifters $120
top end gasket set $200 (you could save $60 here and go with cheaper gaskets)
cam bearings $25

Of course since your there you may as well replace oil pump $50, and timing chain set $90, lower gasket set $94 (oil pan needs to come off to replace oil pump/ clean oil pick up screen)

This is the number one thing I would be concerned with. The noise does not have to be as pronounced as in that video link. It seriously sounds like a bad tensioner bearing. I originally pulled the belts, found a bad a/c tensioner and really thought I had the issue resolved. Until I started the engine without the belts and the noise was still there.

I have heard of many of these engines going 200k+ miles and never having this issue. Then there are some I have heard of that get it at as low as 80k.

Before people go there, We bought the Tahoe at 20k miles, had oil changed every 3k miles(I can think of once where it got to 5k before the change) under valve cover slight yellow discoloration and absolutely no sludge to be found. This engine has not been abused in any way.

Also just prior to noise, I started getting a check engine light, I pulled some codes but off the top of my head I can't remember the numbers. One was a possible bad catalytic converter, other was a random misfire which only occurred the day I actually began working on it.

After engine swap, no codes have appeared.

Somehow I went from trying to tell you what to look for, to telling my story(must have hit a sore spot) anyway I apologize for it but I'm not erasing all that typing.
 
Last edited:

Colesdad

New Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2014
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
To tell you the truth, this 2006 Tahoe has been my favorite family vehicle. It is GREAT to load up the kids, pack up things and go places.
 

ccvortex

New Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2014
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Im arranging to have my local Chevy dealer look at it tomorrow. I am assuming a carbon in the anti-freeze and compression test is advisable? What other tests?
 

Colesdad

New Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2014
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
read this

just one page and it explains an issue some of these engines have. Definitely need to check for glycol in the oil.

Compression test is a standard.
Definitely spend the cash for a carfax report.

Is the one your looking at 4wd? I thought all z71's came with 4wd, apparently some are available without.

they could pull the valve covers and put dial indicators on rocker arms just over each of the push rods and record and compare lifts on all intakes, and compare lifts on all exhausts. This could show if one of the cam lobes is worn more than the others and working toward the issue that I dealt with, but I have no idea what they would charge to do that.

I am really not the person to be advising you on all the tests they need to run. I believe they have a standard list of checks they do for a preliminary inspection but many have to do with frame and exterior appearances. You need and engine inspection.
 
Last edited:
Top