Radiator - Top Oil Cooler Leaking

[Malones99]

99 Yukon 4x4 350

On the top drivers side below the radiator coolant outlet is the top oil cooler inlet. This is what is leaking. It is leaking coolant not oil. I have taken the oil cooler line out, unscrewed the "ring" that holds the internal oil cooler in place. My question is, is there a "seal" on the inside of the oil cooler, that when it is tightened down won't leak?

 

[FTGF]

I have the same problem on a 99 Yukon. $100 will repair it. $230 will get you a new radiator. I bought a new one today and will be putting it in tomorrow. It's messy getting the old one out. If your lucky enough to get most of the fluid out of the drain, the rest of it will be a mess. Drivers side is oil. Passenger is trans. The fan covers come off of the top easily. The bottom does not drop out the bottom as the OEM manual says. It's in the way the whole time. Also I had a light duty at 1 1/4 inch thick and can't find it. So I am going in with a heavy duty (2+ rows). The AZ guy was telling me it wouldn't work but looking at it I can't see why. I will let you know tomorrow.

 

[John Redcorn]

I'm going to bump this old thread.

Mine's leaking from the same spot. I was going to get it fixed at a radiator shop I've used before, they said they'd replace the sidetank for $110 if I brought the radiator in.

Then my dad told me about radiatorbarn and I can get a whole new one for $40 more than getting mine fixed. (with the added bonus of not having to drive my radiator all over town in my old car)

Today I was calling some parts places in town to see if anyone had anything similar in price to radiatorbarn. One guy said he had one for $200 but he said he'd recommend me paying him $90 to replace the sidetank. I told him I was thinking about $150 one from radiator barn, he said it's likely the same one he sells for $200 and they're cheap chinese stuff. He said paying the $90 for him to fix the sidetank will end up being better for me than buying a new on from him or off the internet. He also even said "Tahoe, let me guess, it's leaking coolant by the oil line" so I guess he does know his stuff a bit.

I'm sure he makes more money doing that vs. selling me a radiator but I'm wondering how much of it's true.

What say you guys? is fixing a stock 135,000 mile radiator for 60% the cost of a brand new chinese radiator the better option?

 

[Sepiroth]

Well, I have seen some chinese cars, and um lemme tell you their quality sucks. That being typed, I would say no to the cheaper replacement, that is if the rad is made in China. Prolly has lead in the paint too, lol.

I know a few rad shops out here that have replaced tanks and also did a recore. They also pressure test and repair any leaks.

On a final note, I would replace that dexcool with the good ol green stuff or the yellow stuff. .02

 

[FTGF]

My two cents. All of the radiators are made in China unless you buy a high end brand. It's cheaper to make them there. The quality on mine from Advanced A was just fine. I also looked at one from A Zone which was a heave duty but did not fit the bottom rail so I had to get the thinner model. Years ago I bought a radiator for an Acura Legend from radiator barn and have no complaints. It mine opinion, it's not worth repairing it. What's the warranty on the repair 90 days maybe. You get a lifetime warranty on one from a major retailer, (not sure about the barn).

Couple of quick things I learned. Flush the radiator with water before you put it in. I replaced all the hoses while I was in there, I didn't want to replace one of those later. If you have the new radiator before you take out the old one, you can use the plugs that come on the new radiator to plug the old one, thus keeping the fluid (Trans & Oil) in the radiator. The oil pressure on the gauge in the dash was high for the first mile or two after driving the vehicle for the first time. This concerned me right away but it settled down right after. If you get a chance check your pressure when you start the truck cold and drive it a little so you have a reference. The OEM hose clamps are a pain, even if you have the correct tool to clamp and hold them. Looking back, $1.39 for a hose clamp that a 5/16 nut driver will fit, would have saved me about fifteen minutes and a few cuts and some four letter words.

Also if you have a compressor and have a venturi and tank you can suck all the oil and trans fluid out of the radiator before you pull it and keep the whole thing a lot cleaner through the process.

Good luck with whatever you decide.