Hydroboost brake conversion

[JP422]

Finally got the hydraboost setup done... Still in the process of getting all teh air out of the system... and was told it can even take up to 500 miles of driving for it to be completely gone... but the braking will keep improving.

I fired it up last night, and today it was already feeling better.

Here's some things I noticed....

-Braking has MUCH more power now...
-Hydraboost unit can get hot... I'm thinking about adding a small power steering fluid cooler.
-I routed the lines tight along the fender like TwinTT.
-the pushrod that goes on the brake pedal w/ the stop light switch has an eyelet that is a couple mm's larger than the oem vac booster eyelet... but once you put on the brake switch, all is good.
-Disconnect the steering shaft from inside the car... like when changing the steering pos sensor, to access the nuts for the booster from inside.
-I kept the SSBC 'firm feel' master cylinder... seems to be fine.. and pedal is still very firm. Never had to crack open the brake hydraulics.
-Overall install was quite easy... very straightforward...
-Cutting the SS braided lines were easy w/ a dremel. Just tape the SS braid w/ masking tape.. then carefully dremel it but dont cut through the teflon hose inside. When the exterior braid is cut.. just take a nice razor blade and slice the teflon hose for a clean cut SS braid line. (I tried the sawing technique, and it didnt go well for me)
-I spoke w/ Paul... from Hydratech, and he really is a great guy and stands behind his products.
-Definitely recommended!!

 

[treepete]

thats so awesome.

Im glad you got that all installed and its working great so far.
Im interested in how the setup looks in the engine bay, along with those new fans.
take care,
Pete

 

[sasquatch094]

and i have yet to see pics.. im disappointed..

 

[JP422]

haha... don't worry... I have pics...
It's just been busy at work so I haven't had the time to prepare them. They're comming.

I might redo the steering fluid though... I cheated and didn't bleed the air properly.
I basically let the old fluid drain when the hoses were removed (fluid from the steering box was still in there). Then after the install was complete, I filled the steering reservior and turned on the engine... then turned lock to lock slowly. this bubbled up the fluid (air escaping) and then I shut off, used a huge syringe, and sucked the dirty st fluid out and refilled w/ new fluid. Then start again, turn lock to lock, and change the reservoir fluid again. Funny thing though is the brakes feel great, and steering is fine, but the pump now whines a little... very faint but it's there. This is what I get for not being able to wait to drive it. Anyway, overall, the brakes do feel better and stronger each day (more air bled?)... but I know this wasn't the 'right' way to do this. I'm gonna look for a small st fluid cooler and try flushing all the mixed (old and new) fluid out, and re-bleed properly.

I still can't believe how great the truck brakes now! Absolutely amazing.

 

[JP422]

some pics from Hydraboost install...

Overall install was pretty smooth...

 

[JP422]

some more pics...

 

[JP422]

and some line pics...

 

[Whippled2dr]

Great looking kit.

 

[treepete]

Man Joe, thats awesome documentation photo work.

The perma cools are awesome.

Can you tell me what the situation is with your AC Clutch assembly?it looks aftermarket, but I cant tell much more than that.
I also enjoyed the tile color in your house and the soldier course of brick that you worked into your driveway.

 

[sasquatch094]

so overall, what was the roundabout price on the whole brake setupp.. thanks looks friggn sweet man.. i like all your engine upgrades like the msd perma cools and cai.. looks good man

 

[JP422]

Thanks for the comments...

I think the price of the Hydraboost came out around $750-$800 shipped. I have to check the papers again.

I re-bled the PS pump again last night.. and did it properly according to directions (lifting the front wheels off, and turning lock to lock 20 times each way w/ engine off... and now my pump is quiet again! The brakes feel SOOOO good! I love the truck right now!~

The truck literally stops like a car... if not better. I love the overall quality, detail, and support from Hydratech, and would definitely recommend it... You can save a few bucks if you make your own kit... but this REALLY takes all guess work out.

As for the PS cooler, I might hold off on that too. All seems well, and the booster isnt getting hot anymore.

 

[Whippled2dr]

Here is some info about adding a cooler if you do decide it necessary later. There was also a nice discussion about adding a cooler on Hydratech's forum before they did away with it.

http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1399

 

[JP422]

Hmm... thanks! I guess I should add a cooler after all... Stay tuned!~

 

[95TwinTT]

Hmm... thanks! I guess I should add a cooler after all... Stay tuned!~

Nice installatiion. I think you should hold off on chasing a cooler. I have had my hydroboost on the Tahoe for several years now and never a hint of a heat problem. :thumbsup:

 

[treepete]

I appriciate what 95TT is saying here. But, at the same time, we know JP has a common medical condition named Upgradeotosis. While mostly only financially serious, it can be easily overcome, and some sufferers actually report of 'harnessing' this malady and converting into a way to stay in the garage.

I think Joe will get the stuff for a custom, one-off PS fluid cooler. Especially since it looked straightforward on that other link. Which translates into 'extra-custom'

Maybe you can merge some of that tech creativity into the making the Best PS Cooler Ever with custom aluminum mounting and SS braided hoses or something.

 

[95TwinTT]

Well, Pete, if we are treating a medical condition here, let’s do it.

My concern would be that the heat is caused by a restriction in the system that should not be there.

When I built my system, I had to enlarge the return tube in the reservoir, because of too much turbulence , it looked like the inside of a blender before changing the inlet size. It could not settle down enough to let the air out of the system.

The Hydroboost by itself should not be causing a heat problem. The only thing I have seen make too much heat is sustained high rpm’s. Like on a road course “rpm’sâ€. And that was without a Hydroboost, just the power steering by itself.

I would be the last person on this planet to be against spending money.

 

[treepete]

Excellent point. Im all about stimulating the underground, custom automotive industry economy. and drinking some beer in the garage while doing it.
Do you think that his towing application and the rear disc conversion would work his HB harder or something? I dont know why he may have heating issues if any... I just know hes a brakes junkie.

Speaking of garage, did you get your garagemahal finished off, i think you were doing heat and flatscreen last time we talked about it.

 

[JP422]

Thanks for the tips TwinTT... I was actually thinking about your setup this morning while driving to work (how you don't need a cooler on your beast). Overall, I don't drive this truck hard at all, but I'd like peace of mind that the PS fluid wont overheat...
esp since it's now tied into the brakes.

The topic of return line is also the one concern I have... of not using a cooler. the instructions state that the return line must not be restrictive... so I tapped the T in about 2-3" from the reservoir (rubber section of it at least). My stock return line seems to be welded to the reservoir... so I wonder what is a good way to use a bigger hose.
The bigger drain is a great idea...

I'm still using my stock PS pump... (161k miles) and it works and feels fine... but I can hear a slight whine sound... it got MUCH better since rebleeding... but is this normal? I can hear is especially when parking the car... slow speeds and lots of steering. I did the Efan conversion at the same time... so part of me is thinking the sound was always there, but inaudible due to the old engine fan. What's your take on this?

Thanks again for your input!

 

[95TwinTT]

Thanks for the tips TwinTT... I was actually thinking about your setup this morning while driving to work (how you don't need a cooler on your beast). Overall, I don't drive this truck hard at all, but I'd like peace of mind that the PS fluid wont overheat...
esp since it's now tied into the brakes.

The topic of return line is also the one concern I have... of not using a cooler. the instructions state that the return line must not be restrictive... so I tapped the T in about 2-3" from the reservoir (rubber section of it at least). My stock return line seems to be welded to the reservoir... so I wonder what is a good way to use a bigger hose.
The bigger drain is a great idea...

I'm still using my stock PS pump... (161k miles) and it works and feels fine... but I can hear a slight whine sound... it got MUCH better since rebleeding... but is this normal? I can hear is especially when parking the car... slow speeds and lots of steering. I did the Efan conversion at the same time... so part of me is thinking the sound was always there, but inaudible due to the old engine fan. What's your take on this?

Thanks again for your input!

I have a different situation with my PS pump. It does not have a reservoir on the pump. I built a separate tank that is mounted next to the radiator on the drivers side. There is a picture back a ways in this thread. It is a stainless tank a little less than a quart. All of the PS fluid goes through this tank, and on to the return line of the PS pump. The tank has never gotten above being just warm to the touch.

I would worry about getting the fluid too cold in the winter time. Most hydraulic systems are happier if they are in a nice warm working range. Everything else under the hood is somewhere between 125 and 250 degrees.

The very nature of the PS system, lends itself for the fluid to cool just by moving around to the PS piston and back through all the piping to the pump. The only source of heat is friction. When you are just driving straight down the road, the PS pump is not working. It's pressure is just leaning against the Hydroboost, but it does not consume any fluid until you hit the brake and then it is just a tablespoon of fluid that moves.

If you do end up putting a cooler on this system, do me a favor and get a thermometer and check the fluid once in a while and let us know if it makes any difference. It would be educational for all of us.

I think the slight whine from the PS pump is very normal with these units. It is not noticeable unless you are really listening for it.

 

[JP422]

:drool:

utterly speechless and in awe.... You're my hero!!