How to remove stereo/bezel.

[RacerX]

Hi new here.

I need to remove the stereo to install a bluetooth adapter that integrates with the stereo (similar to on-star).

The bezel/trim around the radio - Do I just give it a pull?

Anything else I should know?

 

[energ]

yea just pull and put your shifter in first gear to get it out

4 7MM bolts hold in the radio

 

[bzbatl]

Interesting, there aren't any bolts on mine. Just clip-style adapters on the sides of it.

 

[JKmotorsports]

Only 03-up have screws. 95-02 will have the clips on the side. Just press down on the tabs and slide out. As for the trim, it's just snapped in place. Grab a corner and gently tug till it unsnaps and go all the way around. It will be a lot easier if you tilt your column all the way down and move the shifter into 1st.

 

[bzbatl]

JK - think the Yukon was an exception? Ditto on the "easier" part - I don't know if it's even possible to get the trim off without lowering your column all the way down.

Maybe energ wasn't referring to his own...

 

[JKmotorsports]

JK - think the Yukon was an exception? Ditto on the "easier" part - I don't know if it's even possible to get the trim off without lowering your column all the way down.

Maybe energ wasn't referring to his own...

Yea, possible energ wasn't referring to his own; the yukons are the same, at least the hundreds of ones that I've worked on were.

 

[energ]

i just assumed there were some 7s holding the radio in GM loves those 7s everywhere.. haha
i've only had mine apart once and i was pullling the cluster not the raddio
at work i must have had all 03+ because i always need to pull the 7s out

 

[RacerX]

Thanks for the info guys. That bezel is super easy to remove. Maybe too easy.

I have another question........

In trying to install this bluetooth adaptor I need a wiring diagram for the head unit. All my research says front left speaker colors are Tan= Positive and grey = negative. This is NOT the case in my 2000. I went as far as cutting these wires and the front left speaker (both woofer and tweeter) still worked.

It's really strange because I pulled the door panel and the wires are infact tan and grey - that just doesn't translate all the way back to the radio.

anybody know reliable info on which colors are for the woofer in the door?

Also, my head unit has a heat sink and a cooling fan. I'm assuming there is not a separate amp somwhere?

 

[bzbatl]

AFAIK there's a separate amp behind your glove box. It may be for the subwoofer only.

I'm confused as to why you need to wire a BT adapter to speakers...

The harness on mine matched this diagram (second to last page):

http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/GM/PDF/460029.pdf

 

[RacerX]

I'm confused as to why you need to wire a BT adapter to speakers...

This particular adaptor (cigblue from visualogic) cuts the radio/amp when you get an incoming call. Then the adaptors built in 20W amp powers the speaker (you could use any speaker but front left is the obvious choice).

To make things a little more clear. You hook both radio and speaker sides of the speaker wire to the bluetooth. When not on a call the speaker signal just passes through and works as it normally would. get a call and the whole radio/amp shuts down, the bluetooth then powers the front left speaker.

The harness on mine matched this diagram (second to last page):

http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/GM/PDF/460029.pdf

I appreciate you taking the time to post that. Again it does not match my harness - at least wire color is different. That lists a gray and a light gray wire. I have one gray wire and believe me - I've triple checked that.

My plug is the same but I'm reluctant to try the two wires by placement in that plug. It's my understanding there is voltage on GM speaker wires.

Maybe I'll track down this separate amp you speak of and have a look there.

 

[bzbatl]

No, I meant my colors were different, too - but the wire locations were the same.

Try this - go to Wal-Mart and get the $8 aftermarket wiring harness (Scosche Brand) and tie into those wires. Then you don't have to splice anything on the stock harness while you're experimenting.

 

[RacerX]

Try this - go to Wal-Mart and get the $8 aftermarket wiring harness (Scosche Brand) and tie into those wires. Then you don't have to splice anything on the stock harness while you're experimenting.

Oh cool. I didn't know they made such a thing. I do have quite a few "unnecessary" butt connectors already. :nonod:

Thanks for your help.