Headlight Fades in and out

[ayeplussjr]

Okay...so I'm doing the big3 but I can't seem to get a good crimp on the ring terminals w/ the 4 gauge wire. Any suggestions?

 

[boostaholic]

Solder them, I generally solder all the connections I can especially on those big 4ga connectors.

 

[ayeplussjr]

Okay...I did the big 3, but I just wanted to make sure that my battery neg to chassis is bolted in the right place. This spot off to the right in the pic is near the fog lights. Is this an okay spot to have it bolted down? The big 3 and a yellow top is still dimming my headlights. I ended up getting the yellow top since my stock battery died on me, but my lights still dim. Not as bad as before, I don't think, but it still dims.

Also...am I better off buying some flex loom to cover the wires or can I just leave the wires as is? Would there be any melting issues with the wires if I just left it alone?

 

[JKmotorsports]

Run another cable from the neg post to the body. This will help eliminate any voltage drops between the body and frame. And the cable is ok w/o the loom. The loom will melt before the cable will anyway if it's near a high heat source. I use loom for asthetics, not for functionality.

 

[ayeplussjr]

This pic is from the neg post from the battery....I also have a cable running from the positive post from the battery to the alt, and a cable running from the engine block to the ground on the fire wall. Should I be running the cable from the negative post on the battery to somewhere else instead?

Another thing......

Here's a quote that I found on page 6 of this site http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums...o-electronics/120517-nbs-big-3-upgrade-6.html

"I come more from a car audio background than a fullsize Chevy one, and I've only had my 02 'Rado for 2 years. However, I've had plenty of experience when to comes to car audio, and I know that it's VERY important to put an inline fuse on the positive link. The positive factory link you are supplementing is fused for a reason. If you don't fuse the additional positive link you are putting in, you risk burning your entire vehicle to the ground if your electrical system shorts out.

Would you rather replace a $2 fuse if you get a short, or the entire vehicle because you were too lazy to wire in a $10 inline
fuse setup?

Also, in the case that your sound system's capabilities far exceed that of your alternator (entirely possible for any of you who might compete in SPL competitions), a properly sized fuse on that link will protect your alternator from working harder than it should in case of massive over-draw.

Just my $.02, I'm new to the forums and look forward to some interesting discussions!"

Based on what this guy is saying do I need to add an inline fuse from the positive terminal of the battery to the alt? Or, what I have connected is fine?
1. Battery positive to alt
2. Battery negative to chassis (I hope I wired this correctly from my above pic)
3. Engine block to ground on the firewall

Of course I don't want to burn the hoe down, but once again....any help I can get will be greatly appreciated.

 

[JKmotorsports]

I see that you have a cable from the neg post to the frame, which is perfect. But I was suggesting also upgrading the cable from the neg post to the body. The body and frame are isolated by rubber body mounts.
It's always best practice to fuse any wiring coming from the pos post of the battey. You never know what might happen and the fuse(s) will protect the system from any possible damage from a short.

 

[ayeplussjr]

How do I know what size fuse I need for the inline fuse?

 

[ayeplussjr]

It's always best practice to fuse any wiring coming from the pos post of the battey. You never know what might happen and the fuse(s) will protect the system from any possible damage from a short.

What size inline fuse should I use for the cable coming from the pos post of the battery to the alternator?