Going for the all black look.

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DanMan

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Have an 2007 Tahoe LS. When I first got it, I went the chrome trim route. So I upgraded the flat black door handles to the chrome handles and installed a chrome grille insert.

But now I want it all black. The bowties(front and rear) All the badges(sides and rear) and the chrome around the original grille. Could the original plastic black handles be able to be painted?

No paint shops want to even touch it. They say the paint won't hold. Other than doing it myself, what are my options? Anyone on here wanna do it for a nominal fee and I'll pay shipping? I have a spare grille that I got off of ebay, so I won't have to worry about driving around with a hole in the front. I just don't know how easy it'll be to line up all the emblems again after they're painted, because since I'm soooo picky, I know they won't "look right".
 

DanMan

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I found some handles on one of the GM parts websites. I'm guessing the black is the plastic black found on the LS models and the paint to match option would give me the option to tell them I have the factory black paint, right?

I still need to find someone who will paint my factory grill all black. I've called 5 shops and they say they won't do it because the paint won't hold and they wouldn't want me coming back after it starts peeling. No one seems to no about sanding and then using adhesion promoter. I'd do it myself, but I'd like to have someone who knows what they're doing and will have the time to put multiple coats of paint and clear. Yeah, I'd rather pay more for it to come out right.

I also found the factory emblems and badges on that same GM parts site, which would probably come in the same chrome that came on my stock Tahoe. The same "sand and adhesion promoter" process would have to be done to them to huh?
 

nc6600

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I found some handles on one of the GM parts websites. I'm guessing the black is the plastic black found on the LS models and the paint to match option would give me the option to tell them I have the factory black paint, right?

I still need to find someone who will paint my factory grill all black. I've called 5 shops and they say they won't do it because the paint won't hold and they wouldn't want me coming back after it starts peeling. No one seems to no about sanding and then using adhesion promoter. I'd do it myself, but I'd like to have someone who knows what they're doing and will have the time to put multiple coats of paint and clear. Yeah, I'd rather pay more for it to come out right.

I also found the factory emblems and badges on that same GM parts site, which would probably come in the same chrome that came on my stock Tahoe. The same "sand and adhesion promoter" process would have to be done to them to huh?
You need to get LT door handles painted from the factory.
 

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bad63lac

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I replied to your PM but here's the same response for others....



I painted the following:
-bowtie emblems front/rear
-suburban lettering
-chrome on the grill
-grill mesh

I did it all myself with rattle cans... :) I used Dupli Color brand from Autozone. So far its held up great for 5+ months, no chips. It's all in the prep though.


For the chrome grill (after taking the whole grill apart) I sanded the grill with 150grit to give it some bite. I think sprayed Adhesion promotor followed by 3 coats of primer and then 4-5 coats of Satin black.

For the grill mesh, I didnt sand. Just adhesion promoter, primer, paint. On the mesh I used Gloss black and then a couple coats of clear. (I wanted the mesh shiney)

For the emblems/letters: no sanding, adhesion promoter, prime, paint (Satin black)



I only sanded the chrome on the grill. It's really smooth/slippery so I wanted to give everything something to "bite" into. You dont have to sand it all off, just make it dull.

The chrome lettering I didnt sand though, way too tedious. I was more concerned about the grill holding up due to flying road debris.

The mesh and bowties are just bare plastic, so no sanding either.

tip #1
The adhesion promoter works great. Really allows the primer to bite into something and the primer then provides the bite for the paint. If you dont use adhesion promoter the primer/paint will probably flake off.

tip #2
Use a "tack" cloth to clean the part a few times before you start spraying

tip #3
Follow all instructions on the paint cans. If you deviate from the instructions problems/wrinkling will arise. For example, dont give coats "extra" time to dry. This is BAD. If the can says something like "apply coats 10 minutes apart within 1 hour" then make sure you do your coats right at 10 minutes. Dont wait 15 or 20. If you do, the paint will begin to "cure" and the next coat when sprayed on top will wrinkle everything and ruin it. This is the most important thing. READ, READ, READ. Have a clock/watch handy and even write down the times you sprayed at. Its OK to do more coats than 2-3 (the usual recommendation) as long as you follow the intervals and stop spraying within the time limit (usually 1hr).

tip #4
Make sure the primer, paint, and promoter are all compatible. Dont just buy the same brand name. Read the label and make sure you buy compatible stuff. (ie... Acrylic or Enamel, etc).


tip #5
Dont take shortcuts and be careful handling the part after its "dry". It wont be fully cured until 7 days.



(See my sig for pics...)


;)
 
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