Animalbmx,
As soon as the weather gets a little warmer, I’ll be cruising University Avenue almost every Saturday night. I could meet up with you there and save you the trip.
T-Bagg
In retrospect, I think the item that should be the base of it all would be the shortblock. If you are going to ultimately get up to heavy horsepower, it would be nice to get the foundation done early. That is not so much money as it is a pain in the butt. I built up a LT1 to put in this Hoe and when I went to install it, I decided it would be too much effort to redo all of the fixtures on the front of the engine, i.e. alternator, power steering, air conditioning. At that point, I yanked out the Hoe’s engine and took it to the machine shop and turned it into a 4 bolt 383 with forged rotating assembly, manley rods and 8.5 : 1 pistons. As it turned out, I went to the Vintage Air front runner later on anyway and that changed all of the fixtures to a different layout than stock.
If you start with heads and a cam like so many of us did, you will most likely end up doing the engine block when it blows rather than on your schedule. Actually the two bolt mains will take a lot of power as long as you don’t spin it past about 6500. I really didn’t need the 4 bolt mains, I just got caught up in the “might as well†syndrome. Oh, I also switched to a roller cam, which the stock 95 did not have. I also went with roller rockers and beehive springs on the valves.
Rivieraracing
I could not find an inertial brake controller that worked the way the way I like, so I hooked up a hydraulic controller and added a weight selector for how heavy the trailer is. The featherlite trailer is two different animals between having a car on it’s back and being empty. The selector knob allows me to be able to set the brakes so they will not lock up when empty, like they did with all the inertial controllers I tried.
The real beauty of Turbo’s is that they do not spool up and blow unless they see enough heat in the exhaust. When cruising down the highway pulling the car on the trailer the turbo’s don’t do anything unless you put your foot in it to pass. It typically runs about 12 inches of vacuum in the manifold and no boost while cruising. In the old days with the supercharger, it would have a couple pounds of boost waiting outside the throttle plates. lol So I don’t see much difference in fuel economy between pulling a trailer or not.
Sasquatch094
The twin turbo’s are easy to do if you have an aftermarket engine computer. I use the Tec3 from electromotive. I also use a separate computer for the transmission. That is the TCU from TCI. It requires rewiring the entire engine compartment. That is not that big a deal, because the wiring harness comes with the two new computers. You just have to some solder some wires together. The Turbo’s were bought direct from the factory, Banks. It’s the Gayle Banks website. Most of the parts I found and bought over the internet. The engine computer was bought direct from their factory, Electromotive. My memory is a little fuzzy on where some of the small detail parts came from. I do remember some of the companies like Belltech, Bosch, RC, Innovate, Perma Cool, Siemens, Holley, Airflow Research, MSD, and Stewart Warner.
Thanks to all for the kind words………….