Big 3 Wiring Upgrade

[bzbatl]

Good job on the Big3 - sorry, was out of town for the last few days. I promise, I will have detailed pictures soon

That weaved silver wire is the factory ground.

As far as the pitch of the engine, it's probably the TrueFlow. My S&B made the engine sound much "breathier", even in the cabin.

Operating temp could be due to the weather. It's pretty cold in NJ, isn't it?

Voltage should not be dropping, however... not even a little bit. Once you do the Big3, that voltage meter should be stable at whatever it reads (different based on battery type and the gauge itself).

I'd say get yourself a cheapo multimeter from Wal-Mart and check all your points with the engine off. Hold the positive on the alternator and check your Big3 negative points - they should all register the same.

If not, time to check them all to make sure it's tight and the points are clean.

 

[thdrill]

BZ, thanks for the reply I was just checking on the sound of the engine...just sounded too different if you know what I mean. As for the voltage it stays around the 14.4 at idle and increases to 15ish on acceleration and tends to flux inbetween both. If it makes a difference the battery I have is a Optima Red Top, but I will take a volt meter to the grounds tomorrow and check them out and see what happens.

 

[bzbatl]

Ah, I think that's acceptable. I thought you meant swaying like 10-15v.

Do you have a large sound system in it? Try turning on your lights and blasting your stereo on some bass-heavy music. See if the voltage dips.

And I know I sound like a complete wanker, but it's raining today so no pics yet Wife's Benz and my bike take precedent over the poor Hoe for garage space.

 

[JPerkMr954]

This is possibly the most direct but confusing thread.... I think this is one that I'll have to read when I have bought my tahoe... cause all i got was to buy a H-O alt and larger wires, but i have no idead about putting them where they are supposed to be.

 

[greengumby]

if you dont own a tahoe to begin with and yes this thread would be confusing as hell Once you get a hoe things would make sense a little better :ack:

 

[JPerkMr954]

Definatly.... I just came in here cause I ready it was about a major upgrade for Audio/Video people.. and im definatly going to have a major stereo system in my truck... so i want to do whatever i can....

 

[WrenchGuy]

It doesn't really matter which vehicle it is. If you understand the wires your doing you can stab them wherever is applicable. Its simple really. Here is a common way its done.

Alt (POS) to Battery (POS) fused for safety at capacity of wire.

Battery (NEG) to a paint scraped spot on the chassis as close to the battery that can be secured properly.

Now my choice of (ENGINE) to (CHASSIS) ground is the alternator mount bolt itself to a scraped paint spot on the chassis that can be properly secured. You can go to the same place as the Battery also. Whichever is convenient.

 

[ayeplussjr]

What's the difference with going with 0 gauge wires or 4 gauge wires? Is there any advantages or disadvantages?

Looking at this link http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums...deo-electronics/120517-nbs-big-3-upgrade.html that was posted on the first page of this thread can I use 3' ground wires as opposed to 4' ground? Or would it be safe to just go with the 4' grounds and the 5' from the engine block to the chassis?

 

[JKmotorsports]

What's the difference with going with 0 gauge wires or 4 gauge wires? Is there any advantages or disadvantages?

Looking at this link http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums...deo-electronics/120517-nbs-big-3-upgrade.html that was posted on the first page of this thread can I use 3' ground wires as opposed to 4' ground? Or would it be safe to just go with the 4' grounds and the 5' from the engine block to the chassis?

The bigger the wire (smaller awg number=bigger diameter), the less resistance you have and the more easily electrons can flow through the conductor. The same is true for the length of the cable; the shorter the better. So in short, the thicker the diameter and shorter the length cable you can use is better. But look out for the cheap stuff; they are not all the same. Some cheaper stuff might have 4 ga stamped on it and may look thick, but if you look at the actual conductor(wire), it will be smaller in comparison to that of a true AWG 4ga cable. Cheaper companies use thicker insulation to make the gauge of the wire look bigger. Make sure it is stamped with AWG before the number.

 

[HitandRunDriver]

Can i run a big three wiring upgrade with the stock AC Delco battery with the pos and neg side terminals, or do i need to upgrade to a red or yellow top optima?

 

[boostaholic]

You'll have to run a different terminal with a distribution, or just rewire the entire fuseblock and everything else through a fused distribution block.

 

[HitandRunDriver]

Would that be a big hassle or a money saver so i wouldnt have to make the jump to an optima. Normally, i'd drop the money for a redtop no problem, but i just replaced the battery a couple months ago before i even considered the big 3

 

[Gambler]

Has anybody done this on a 2007+ tahoe? If so, I'd like to know what you did with the starter wire...

 

[WrenchGuy]

Has anybody done this on a 2007+ tahoe? If so, I'd like to know what you did with the starter wire...

Starter wire? ...lol What did they do on it? Run it all together?

 

[greengumby]

Has anybody done this on a 2007+ tahoe? If so, I'd like to know what you did with the starter wire...

Considering that we all here have the older trucks is it a total different setup in ur hoe than ours? shouldnt have changed that much

 

[Gambler]

Starter wire? ...lol What did they do on it? Run it all together?

The starter wire and the wire to the 175A fuse are crimped into this metal bracket that is bolted to the positive battery terminal. The other side of the 175A fuse is connected to the alternator and the main fuse box. I can redo all the other wires without too much problem, but what to do with the starter wire is bugging me. If I cut it at the bracket and put a terminal on the end of it, it won't be long enough to reach the battery.

 

[WrenchGuy]

The starter wire and the wire to the 175A fuse are crimped into this metal bracket that is bolted to the positive battery terminal. The other side of the 175A fuse is connected to the alternator and the main fuse box. I can redo all the other wires without too much problem, but what to do with the starter wire is bugging me. If I cut it at the bracket and put a terminal on the end of it, it won't be long enough to reach the battery.

You really dont have to do anything to stock wire at all. Just do the 3 wires over top of them. Current follows the path of least resistance. Also if the upgrade fails somewhere your not on the side of the road either.

 

[Gambler]

You really dont have to do anything to stock wire at all. Just do the 3 wires over top of them. Current follows the path of least resistance. Also if the upgrade fails somewhere your not on the side of the road either.

There is no way to connect to the battery without removing the bracket (and snipping the wires). The '07s have the top post batteries.

 

[Gambler]

I suppose I could just drill a hole in the bracket, stick a bolt through it, and hook a ring terminal to it; that might be the easiest thing to do.

 

[WrenchGuy]

I suppose I could just drill a hole in the bracket, stick a bolt through it, and hook a ring terminal to it; that might be the easiest thing to do.

That sounds good if it will fit there. What accessories you got? Is there going to be a battery upgrade needed later?