Ball joints
- Thread starter MarkR
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
No, you aren't the first, believe me! I just put an upper left ball joint on my 97 4x4. In my experience it's the idle arm and pitman arm that seem to go out the most on these trucks.....you feel a little "bump" coming through the steering wheel and it starts to get sloppy. I"d have that checked before installing the ball joints just to be sure. I'd get a good shop manual, like a Haynes to get good directions if you don't get any feedback here from someone who's performed the repair. Hope this helps.
foreverfalcon40
Full Access Member
I've done both upper and lower ball joints as well as my pittman arm. I did it all at the same time. I wish I bought the kit off EBAY which has all front suspension pieces for a KILLER KILLER DEAL. I had the access to use a lift which made a dificult install a little less easy. BALL JOINTS are a pain in the ass to get out. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD HAMMER, Strong arm and patients!
The pittman arm is a different story gotta do some wiggling and removing a few pieces for it to get through. I feel this is where GM failed in these trucks!
The pittman arm is a different story gotta do some wiggling and removing a few pieces for it to get through. I feel this is where GM failed in these trucks!
patience young one patience
first of all it depends on if they are rivited in or if they are pressed in . if they are pressed in then u will need to get yourself a balljount press ''installer'' your local parts store should have a loan a tool program. this tool jis used to remove and install the joints so tale your time and b patient. ur gonna have remove the caliper , maybe the cv axle and upper ball jointsn cv to get to all this buy the way. if they are the factory ball joints then u can tale a torch and blow all the rivets out, if ur not comfortable with that then grind off the heads of the rivets flush with the a arm center punch them and drill them out. the new joints will come with bolts nuts and washers to reinstall the new joints.............by the way when removing the upper balljoint from the spindel male sure u find the spot on the spindel that is flat on the side ....this spot is usually the opposite of ur brake line.....its gonna b right underneath the upper a arm....when removing the joint from the spindel get a good size hammer ...not a framing hammer and knock the hell out of that spot...ur balljoint will pop out of the spindel good luck
first of all it depends on if they are rivited in or if they are pressed in . if they are pressed in then u will need to get yourself a balljount press ''installer'' your local parts store should have a loan a tool program. this tool jis used to remove and install the joints so tale your time and b patient. ur gonna have remove the caliper , maybe the cv axle and upper ball jointsn cv to get to all this buy the way. if they are the factory ball joints then u can tale a torch and blow all the rivets out, if ur not comfortable with that then grind off the heads of the rivets flush with the a arm center punch them and drill them out. the new joints will come with bolts nuts and washers to reinstall the new joints.............by the way when removing the upper balljoint from the spindel male sure u find the spot on the spindel that is flat on the side ....this spot is usually the opposite of ur brake line.....its gonna b right underneath the upper a arm....when removing the joint from the spindel get a good size hammer ...not a framing hammer and knock the hell out of that spot...ur balljoint will pop out of the spindel good luck
yukon6inchlift
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2008
- Messages
- 4
- Reaction score
- 0
i got life time from napa,,,seem to be holding up good. hard to tell if they are bad by looking unless they are broken bad. jack that wheel up off the ground, grab the tire top and bottom and see if you can move it much. if it does move try looking inside and see if you can see the ball joint move when you do this. may as well grab the sides and see if it has a lot of movement also. look at tierod ends and pitman arm. usually the bad part will do the moving. it will move a little side to side when good but not much. all these parts go bad sooner or later
I need some help also, I went to the parts store to purchase two new lower ball joints and was asked the question: "what size 48mm or 46mm?" I don't know.
How do I find out the size of the lower ball joints on my 1998 chevy tahoe LT?
How do I find out the size of the lower ball joints on my 1998 chevy tahoe LT?
yukon6inchlift
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2008
- Messages
- 4
- Reaction score
- 0
with out removing them,,,, idk. i'm thinkin one type was splined and the other type was smooth. been a while now but i think the splined ones were bigger. mine was the smooth ones.
mtyler7807
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2008
- Messages
- 46
- Reaction score
- 0
35mm (small) ball joint = stamped control arm
36mm (big) ball joint = forged control arm
this for 4wd 96-99
DV Scott
New Member
Not sure exactly as for stock because I have a lift kit with aftermarket control arms. If they are like mine tho it should be very easy. Jack up, unbolt and bolt back on. Pretty simple
RedAlrt1
New Member
I'm about to replace the lower ball joint on the left side. I have the PPV specific OEM ball joint which looks just like the one I'm about to remove. They do not have circlips on them. All instructions I've seen state to grind/cut off the four swaged tabs before removing the old ball joint. Are the four tabs at the top of the control arm some kind of retainer for the OEM balljoint since there is no circlip? Need to get this right.
Saw this on another forum
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thre...-ball-joints-on-nnbs-tahoe.46406/#post-568738
Saw this on another forum
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thre...-ball-joints-on-nnbs-tahoe.46406/#post-568738
nathanhanover
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2016
- Messages
- 12
- Reaction score
- 0
I have done all three my tahoe front end rebuilds some versions you really need a press. I have a 16 ton press and also rebuilt all the a-arms with new Polly bushings.
You need a good set of drills if it has never been done before. And or a Torch/plasma cutter. Torque wrench.. Large socket set and wrenches. Box of rags and a Chilton repair book would set you on the right path. I always buy the most expensive parts available at O-rielly when it comes to steering components you don't want to be a tight a$$. Also if your going to do it. Go ahead and swap out your steering control arms. Moog parts are real good. You need to grease everything when done and get it in for a front end allignment is a absolute MUST. or you will ruin your tires. Follow all the Torque specifications in the repair manual or you could over / under tighten leading to accidental failure and possibly death.
You need a good set of drills if it has never been done before. And or a Torch/plasma cutter. Torque wrench.. Large socket set and wrenches. Box of rags and a Chilton repair book would set you on the right path. I always buy the most expensive parts available at O-rielly when it comes to steering components you don't want to be a tight a$$. Also if your going to do it. Go ahead and swap out your steering control arms. Moog parts are real good. You need to grease everything when done and get it in for a front end allignment is a absolute MUST. or you will ruin your tires. Follow all the Torque specifications in the repair manual or you could over / under tighten leading to accidental failure and possibly death.
RedAlrt1
New Member
Did the job a couple of weeks ago. Ended up changing the control arm.
http://www.tahoeforum.com/showthread.php?t=534862
http://www.tahoeforum.com/showthread.php?t=534862
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
Help Request: Passenger Side Auxiliary Power
- Latest: tahoesteve666
-
-
