I have a 99 with 125K. same issue between 60-70 MPH (I have new tires and U joints-front and rear) Front U's did help a tad. Has gotten worse over time, but sometimes seems to be worse and then a little better even during an 2-3 hour trip. Not engine/rpm dependent and not Trans in that it continues even if you throw it in Nuetral at 65. So, I agree it seems to be rear diff, shaft, front diff or CV jount or axal related. question is where to look and how to ID?
BAD (and I do mean BAD) VIBRATION
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I have a 99 with 125K. same issue between 60-70 MPH (I have new tires and U joints-front and rear) Front U's did help a tad. Has gotten worse over time, but sometimes seems to be worse and then a little better even during an 2-3 hour trip. Not engine/rpm dependent and not Trans in that it continues even if you throw it in Nuetral at 65. So, I agree it seems to be rear diff, shaft, front diff or CV jount or axal related. question is where to look and how to ID?
shudder
I have a 96 Yukon and it shudders at 110 kph. Always has. On coloradok5 they say it's a bad torque converter that causes this.Common problem for this truck. Not worth fixing for me as I drive faster then 110 usually and the shudder goes away.
I have a 96 Yukon and it shudders at 110 kph. Always has. On coloradok5 they say it's a bad torque converter that causes this.Common problem for this truck. Not worth fixing for me as I drive faster then 110 usually and the shudder goes away.
had same problem to the tee but mines fixed now
had same problem as you to the tee on my 1998 Tahoe but mines fixed now I put it up on the rack and even after balancing the tires and rims together I could still see a barely perceptible wobble on the passenger rear tire after first over anylizing and much fear of cost I checked wheel and tire seperately and confirmed what my eyes and common sense told me.. the tire was bad since they wernt that great anyway I bought a new set of oem goodyear wranglers and the problem completely went away the same thing happened to my dads 1997 and his was a bent rim its almost always just a bad tire or rim check the runout on the rim if it is suspect have it checked without the tire
had same problem as you to the tee on my 1998 Tahoe but mines fixed now I put it up on the rack and even after balancing the tires and rims together I could still see a barely perceptible wobble on the passenger rear tire after first over anylizing and much fear of cost I checked wheel and tire seperately and confirmed what my eyes and common sense told me.. the tire was bad since they wernt that great anyway I bought a new set of oem goodyear wranglers and the problem completely went away the same thing happened to my dads 1997 and his was a bent rim its almost always just a bad tire or rim check the runout on the rim if it is suspect have it checked without the tire
No.
I am having the same problem you are describing and it's not the tires, u-joints, or whatever. I had all that checked.
As someone may have mentioned earlier I am beginning to suspect the throttle body or maybe the injectors, maybe even the exhaust system. I had a hook break off not to long ago; just before the CATs.
I drive and everything is smooth until I had around 70MPH. Between 70MPH-80MPH the vibration gets respectively worse, but hit a bit above 80MPH the vibration seems to flatten out. The vibration I'm feeling is something that is felt thru the gas pedal. It's not the tires being out of whack or anything - those are easy fixes. On here and other forums I've seen people post about the same things.
Now I am starting to suspect the air/fuel system components b/c I realize that the vibration seems to simmer down after I Sea Foam the top end and/or use fuel system cleaner. On long trips when I have to reduce myself to using discount gasolines, b/c the next Top-Tier gasoline stations is miles away, the vibration is at its WORSE....seriously. It gets to the point of pissing me off because I do maintain the 'Hoe and use only the best, and to now that there is something you can't pinpoint is irritating. But neither her nor there.....I'm going to remove the throttle body and give it a good cleaning. If the pocket book permits I may change out Fuel Injectors, but those suckers are expensive. I've only done the Sea Foam top end clean twice, it may be that a few more cleanings will do the trick.
Something I'm less educated about is the EGR Valve. I read several places that they should be replaced with a high mileage maintenance intervals. Anyone ever change it out? Seems like it could be causing some of these vibrations issues.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/glossary/gr/def_egr-valve.htm
Pros
* The EGR valve is vital to your car's emission controls.
Cons
* When the EGR valve goes bad, it must be replaced.
Description
* EGR Valve = Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve.
* The EGR valve controls formation of noxious emissions.
* Rough idle and poor acceleration can be caused by a faulty EGR valve.
EGR Valves aren't cheap either. If I replace it I'll post back here if there are any positive findings.
I am having the same problem you are describing and it's not the tires, u-joints, or whatever. I had all that checked.
As someone may have mentioned earlier I am beginning to suspect the throttle body or maybe the injectors, maybe even the exhaust system. I had a hook break off not to long ago; just before the CATs.
I drive and everything is smooth until I had around 70MPH. Between 70MPH-80MPH the vibration gets respectively worse, but hit a bit above 80MPH the vibration seems to flatten out. The vibration I'm feeling is something that is felt thru the gas pedal. It's not the tires being out of whack or anything - those are easy fixes. On here and other forums I've seen people post about the same things.
Now I am starting to suspect the air/fuel system components b/c I realize that the vibration seems to simmer down after I Sea Foam the top end and/or use fuel system cleaner. On long trips when I have to reduce myself to using discount gasolines, b/c the next Top-Tier gasoline stations is miles away, the vibration is at its WORSE....seriously. It gets to the point of pissing me off because I do maintain the 'Hoe and use only the best, and to now that there is something you can't pinpoint is irritating. But neither her nor there.....I'm going to remove the throttle body and give it a good cleaning. If the pocket book permits I may change out Fuel Injectors, but those suckers are expensive. I've only done the Sea Foam top end clean twice, it may be that a few more cleanings will do the trick.
Something I'm less educated about is the EGR Valve. I read several places that they should be replaced with a high mileage maintenance intervals. Anyone ever change it out? Seems like it could be causing some of these vibrations issues.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/glossary/gr/def_egr-valve.htm
Pros
* The EGR valve is vital to your car's emission controls.
Cons
* When the EGR valve goes bad, it must be replaced.
Description
* EGR Valve = Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve.
* The EGR valve controls formation of noxious emissions.
* Rough idle and poor acceleration can be caused by a faulty EGR valve.
EGR Valves aren't cheap either. If I replace it I'll post back here if there are any positive findings.
vibration
I had the same vibration on my 96 four door 4x4 Yukon. I just had the rear diff completely redone with new bearings and seals and the vibration is gone. Mechanic showed me the parts and all the bearings had pits and pieces missing. Had been making this vibration at exactly 110 kph since i've owned the truck two years now. After the work it's completly gone. Smooth and didn't even know how noisy it was on the highway till it was gone. Good luck
I had the same vibration on my 96 four door 4x4 Yukon. I just had the rear diff completely redone with new bearings and seals and the vibration is gone. Mechanic showed me the parts and all the bearings had pits and pieces missing. Had been making this vibration at exactly 110 kph since i've owned the truck two years now. After the work it's completly gone. Smooth and didn't even know how noisy it was on the highway till it was gone. Good luck
Was your problem a vibration or a shudder? Shudder where the entire truck shakes or a vibration you were feeling thru the gas pedal? My feeling is completely thru the gas pedal but I can tell it is affecting the performance of the truck. It's been cold in my area lately and on my way to work this morning I hit 70-80MPH and did not notice the vibration. I wonder now if it could have something to do with the MAF sensor?
Has anyone with an aftermarket intake unit, that eliminates the MAF Unit, experienced this vibration?
i had similar problem, only noticed it on highway, over 55 mph and only when giving it gas. changed front shaft ujoints. fixed problem. seems that at high speeds the shaft turns even when in 2wd. i would also check your front whell hub bearings. i changed mine a while ack they too caused a vibration.
Untitled415
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I hardly doubt its the wheels or steering... most of the time when wheels or a steering componets are bad there is just a vibration in the steering wheel which can most time only be noticed at high speeds.
This to me sound like a cracked flywheel, torque converter, or drive shaft probelm. I do not believe that the trans would make a vibration like the one you are referring to.
This to me sound like a cracked flywheel, torque converter, or drive shaft probelm. I do not believe that the trans would make a vibration like the one you are referring to.
Stillakilla187
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You are right, the factory weight is welded on. However, the shaft can still rust and other things can happen to it to throw it off balance. Once this happens the symptoms are exactly the one described.
Stillakilla187
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and if not fixed the drive shaft will wobble all the components inside the tranfer case and/or transmission and will do SERIOUS damage. get it check out just in case. Getting it balance is like 100 bucks, thats a lot cheaper than getting a tranny rebuild.
SPXTrader
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Well, found the problem. Rear u-joints shot. The caps fell apart in my hand while replacing them. Funny part is that the DS was tight as a tick when trying to move it by hand. Decided to drop it anyway, just for grins. That's when I noticed the cracked u-joint caps. That problem solved!
New problem: Superlift front link bushings shot, I think. From time to time I get a BAD (and I mean BAD) wobble in the steering wheel when braking in a turn.
Oh well, it looks good!
New problem: Superlift front link bushings shot, I think. From time to time I get a BAD (and I mean BAD) wobble in the steering wheel when braking in a turn.
Oh well, it looks good!
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GMCYukalade
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My factory U-Joint did the exact same thing.. and i drove it till the drive shaft fell out..
Black96
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wow, man someone should make a thread of just pictures of evey thing that has been broken on everyones tahoes on here and have it open too all the diff gen tahoes
GMCYukalade
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This is two different rearends both from the same Yukon
Black96
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dude i feel ur pain i did three so far haha, mine have all been the carrier brakin so i put a detriot tru trac and yukon gears in
SPXTrader
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What's funny is, like I said, you could yank, twist and shake the drive shaft till your hearts content and would have never known the joints were bad. Only after dropping the drive shaft did I find the severity of the problem.
I called a local place that does lifts (mine is lifted) and he confirmed that a set of u-joints in a lifted truck are only good for 2 or 3 years. I lifted mine in 1998, so this explains why this is the third set of joints since then. The other two sets that went bad came on gradually, and I knew what the problem was as it became more severe. This time, it went from OK to very bad in about 60 miles. Never experienced that before...
