AIR!!!

[jnicks01]

It looks like I am the first with an a/c problem this summer.

What is wrong...End of last summer, my a/c started to fade away. I assumed I may have had a small leak somewhere, so yesterday I put in 1 can of leak finder/sealer. I do not see any leaks. Ran it for about 15 minutes and still nothing. Checked the pressure this morning with my r134 gauge and it was in the blue (which says it is ok). I added about a half can of r134 for the hell of it. Air blowing out is still hot. Compressor is cycling too.

Any suggestions of what could be wrong. Is at as simple as trying to add more r134 even though my "Walmart" gauge says it is ok. I did not check the high pressure side for I have no tools for that one and I am a virgin when it comes to A/C systems. You guys have taught me tons so far, so hopefully you can help me learn more!!

Help...it's 92 and humid here in Indy.

 

[Mike97]

Do not add any more freon. You can easily kill your compressor if you overfill the system. If you had a leak last summer, chances are good that you still have the leak. Since you have no experience with A/C systems, I would recommend that you take it to a shop and have them check your system out. It's not that expensive, and they can tell you exactly what's wrong with it. A/C systems are not that complicated, but they are easy to screw up if you don't know what you are doing. But definitely do not add anything else to your system if the gauge is reading full.

 

[jwpotts0413]

yea any auto repair place like midas can check the system for you, usually for free just to diagnose. unless they add dye then of course they charge a little bit. u could look at the service valve and see if there is oily residue on it. if there is, u should change it (part is only $12 at the dealer). once the valve is changed u can begin to look for leaks with the ultraviolet dye and glasses. my leak is the evaporator core line that comes out of the firewall, which is a pain to replace so it looks like another summer with no ac for me (unless i come into $500 somehow)

 

[jwpotts0413]

i hear good things about the stop leak they sell on ebay for $50 as long as it's a small leak. mine loses a full charge in 2 days so stop leak wont work for me

 

[Rick90467]

Your problem really sounds like the blend door is sticking. Check the back air and see if it's cooler.

But on those sealers, if you go down to the NAPA store they have a Freon mix called high milage that cantains a sealer and some type of conditioning agent, works great unless the leak is audible after you turn off the engine like hissing. Mine was but I was lucky when mine sprang a leak. Next to the passanger side battery tray, there is a v-nutt on the line between the cond. and evap. and both of the o-rings is it had become brittle and I replaced them for like 3 bucks and then charged it up and it has been cold since.

 

[qlc1964]

i think i have to replace the pressure switch on mine.

had to use a jumper wire and it's working fine . but can't find a press switch at the
auto parts store. and it just srews off with out any 134 coming out?

 

[LesF]

Blend Door? more info please!

Your problem really sounds like the blend door is sticking. Check the back air and see if it's cooler.

Okay... I was just going to post a problem that can be described like
you just did above. My A/C seems to be working in the rear portion, nice and
cold. The front seems okay when outside is cool but gets warmer
as it gets hotter out. The rear is always cold. Where exactly
is the blend door and how is it controlled...
Thanks!

Les

 

[jnicks01]

Checked the rear air, and it is just as hot as the fronts. I'm just going to get it tested by a pro to see what the problem may be. I'm kind of intimidated by the whole system and would really hate to mess it up.

 

[Hardwarz]

You should put a pressure tester on first before adding anything.

If you have pressure, then you don't have a leak. If you have no pressure, DO NOT ADD R134a!

If you have zero pressure, place a vacuum pump on it. Take it to -30 in/lbs. Remove the pump. If it keeps a vacuum after 30 minutes or so, it should be good. If it creeps up, you have a leak and need to find the leak.

If you have have a slow leak, most of the cans with stop leak will work. If the gauge moves up faster than a creep, then you have a large leak and you'll have to find the leak and repair it first.

If you have to open your system, you need to replace your AC drier. This is what absorbs any water in the system. Water mixed with the R134a/oil causes an acid which will start eating up the internals of your AC system, causing more problems. Since the system is open, you might as well replace any parts that need replaced. Once you repairs are done, you need to vacuum it to -30 in/lbs again.

If it holds a vacuum, then you can add the R134a in. If not, back to the beginning to find the leak.

Now, I only say this if you have zero pressure and all your freon has leaked out. If you still have pressure, you should go to an authorized service center and have them recover the R134a before any work is done. A lot of service centers won't even work on your system if you added stop leak for fear it will mess up their equipment. Will it? I don't know, I've read both arguements, but most places want to know if you added stop leak.

If you buy a vacuum pump, get a real pump, not one of the Harbor Freight venturi pumps. You need to get the system to -30 in/lbs.

Hope this helps.

Hardwarz