I also read one about removing the kick panel on the drivers side and jumpering a pin in there - but it was for a blazer so not sure if the tahoe/yukon would have that.. wow.. i'm kinda stumped as to how to do it on a 95 - what happened to the old keyless entry remote?
After calling in a few favors, I got the procedure for a 12 pin connector. First off, the reason the remote was missing is I bought the Tahoe @ auction, it was a repo, guess the repo man was too busy to wait for the owner to go get the keys !!!
With a12 pin diagnostic link connector, early to mid year production, (somewhere after mid year they went to the 18 pin connector, ON MOST VEHICLES)
Enter the vehicle, make sure ALL doors are UNLOCKED, if power door lock function is used to open remaining doors wait 1 minute before proceding. Attach a test light to a GOOD ground, probe top right terminal, if door locks do not "lock/unlock" then probe left lower terminal, (my truck worked on the left lower terminal) when the doors lock/unlock keep the test light in contact with the terminal and press both lock and unlock on the remote, this may take approx 1 to 20 seconds, mine accepted the code instantly, if you are programing more than one remote, dont break contact with the pin in the connector, if you do, the process must start from the begining. It`s O.K. if you have the drivers door open while probing/programing. Once the test light nis removed, you exit the program mode. Now according to my local G.M dealer the only remote compatibale with my truck is # 15725423. I`ve got news for them, after talking to one of my local junkies, he agreed to let me walk his yard and gather a handfull of remotes. This is an older style square remote so there aren`t that many of them. But I came up with a few, one is an old TRW model from a 93 Bravada, works like a champ a good 30 feet away, my luck there was another in a 94 s10, both work great, and the price was right, FREEEEEEEEE
Thanks to those that gave it a shot, I hope this info helps someone else
