2007 Factory HU Amp/Sub

[FlacoFlac]

Hey guys, first post here. My buddy is going to help me install subs and an amp into a 2007 LTZ with Bose. I am going to keep the factory HU. Is the only other equipment I need a line converter?

Thanks in advance!

 

[clkelley]

Welcome to the neighborhood!

As far as I know that is all you need, although I have to admit to not being an expert on the stereo stuff. There are some others here that are and can help you further when they log on in a little while.

 

[tonymac617]

A line converter and an amp install kit which should have everything you need to install the added components. You will want to install the line converter at the head unit wiring harness. If you run it in the rear and splice into the rear speaker wires, like some folks do, you risk introducing feedback into your audio signal because the subwoofer will act like a large microphone diaphragm.

 

[clkelley]

Hey Tony, I have heard of people mounting everything away from the head unit, but sending the wiring to the head unit harness where it should be; but I have also heard that this isn't good either, that the converter should be as close to the hu as possible? Can you explain this too so I understand why this would be the case?

 

[tonymac617]

Pretty much the same reason. You can pick up signal interference along the routing of the wire. During the early days of my Stereo installations, I hooked up a line converter in the trunk of a friends Accura. I tapped into the rear stock speakers. It sounded great at first, but soon after we started to hear feedback in the system. When we turned down the stereo, and tapped on the stock speakers, the subwoofer produced a thumping sound with each tap. We then lengthened the wires and ran them closer to the front speakers and we still ran into signal issues. Not as bad but it was still there. A couple of days after, I installed it wiring it to the stereos harness and no more issues. So chalk this up to personal Expierience. :waytogo:

 

[clkelley]

Gotcha, I ask because I am going all the way through the Duramax, I have the entire interior out now. But when it begins to go back together I plan to do something for it beyond stock. I plan on giving it to my son when it's done because he turns 16 in Nov. Nothing crazy, but with quality sound and decent bass. I was thinking about replacing all the factory speakers with JBL if I can and remold the door panels just enough to give them a custom look. But sounds quality in the end is the goal.

 

[henzlt3]

where is the factory amp and sub located when you have the boss system in the tahoes

 

[Buc Off]

Not knocking anyone else's advice but if your budget allows for it, why not look into something like this unit for your install? Seeing as though you have the factory Bose system that is awesome (IMO), look into the JL Audio Clean Sweep units for factory integration. Again IMO, using just a basic line level converter loses so much of the clarity within a system. Dont get me wrong they serve a purpose, but for much more clarity and much less distortion I would consider one of these units.

http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-oem-integration

 

[tonymac617]

where is the factory amp and sub located when you have the boss system in the tahoes

In my 2001 Tahoe LT non bose, my Stock Amp is behind the Glove box and the sub is located in the rear cargo area on the drivers side behind the rear trim panel.

 

[tonymac617]

Gotcha, I ask because I am going all the way through the Duramax, I have the entire interior out now. But when it begins to go back together I plan to do something for it beyond stock. I plan on giving it to my son when it's done because he turns 16 in Nov. Nothing crazy, but with quality sound and decent bass. I was thinking about replacing all the factory speakers with JBL if I can and remold the door panels just enough to give them a custom look. But sounds quality in the end is the goal.

If sound quality is what your after and you have a decent budget, I would suggest MB Quart in the doors and a sealed box with 2 10" JL Audios.


Sealed boxes offer much tighter bass response, but requires a bit more power to push them since the box is sealed.

 

[gibsonsynthetics]

Welcome to the forum! Tony hit the nail right on the head, basically you just need the converter, a power cable, a fuse, a ground cable, a remote cable (to your ignition or head unit, to tell your amp when to turn on) and the audio cable. All of which will be found in the wiring kit if you chose to go that route. Good luck! Enjoy the project