MarkD51
Full Access Member
Hi Lester,
I was thinking something along these lines, the Vision Hollywood 5 in 20x9, and the Hankook Ventus ST 275/55-20"
Mark
1997 Tahoe AC rapid cycling problem
- Thread starter MarkD51
- Start date
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Hi Lester,
I was thinking something along these lines, the Vision Hollywood 5 in 20x9, and the Hankook Ventus ST 275/55-20"
Mark
Not bad.....
Also found a parasitic draw finding page....
http://www.w8ji.com/battery_and_charging_system.htm
Also found a parasitic draw finding page....
http://www.w8ji.com/battery_and_charging_system.htm
MarkD51
Full Access Member
Hi All,
Just a couple of updates.
Firstly, the A/C. This afternoon, and yesterday, two days in the 90's here, (and in fact it's still 91 here right now at 8pm) upon initial start-up of the vehicle, the clutch does cycle. Today, and yesterday, the clutch stays engaged for about 10-12 seconds, then kicks off for about 5-6 seconds.
It seems to do this for x amount of minutes during warm up, then when I take off, and drive, I'm estimating 3-5 minutes later, and the temp gauge is coming up, the compressor then stays engaged for much much longer periods.
Again, it seems every time that I've pulled over, whether Ive been driving the truck 10 minutes, or 30-40 minutes, I pop the hood, take a peek, stand there for 5-10 minutes, and the clutch stays engaged.
So, with all this said, I do not know in any way whether this is to be considered "normal" operation, and how this vehicles A/C is supposed to work per factory?
Inside temps, measured with a digital probe thermometer are measuring between 42.7 to 46 degrees at the center vent with AC set to max cool, and high fan.
OK, now onto part two, about the Alarm System. I brought the truck to the Alarm Dealer this afternoon.
The Shock Sensor is adjustable via remote control Key Fob, but even the owner had a bit of a hard time going through the instructions, and while it can be done via owner with a bit of Alarm Electronic Savvy, I think it was best I didn't toy with it, and let him adjust it.
Anyway, he claimed it was set at the most sensitive setting, and was definitely too much, so he lowered the sensitivity about 4-5 levels lower.
I hooked up the Battery Tender in the Shop, armed the Alarm, and for a period of about 2-3 minutes, all seemed good. I figured problem solved.
Anyway, after coming home, I parked the vehicle, re-connected the Battery Tender, Armed the Alarm, and then waited. I waited 5, 10, 15 minutes, and thought all was cured, but nope, the Alarm went off. I disarmed the Alarm, Armed it again, and waited again. So, the first time it tripped the alarm 15 minutes later.
This second time, about 20 minutes passed until the Alarm tripped again.
So, with that said, from initially tripping at about 30-45 seconds after arming prior to these new adjustments, to now taking 15-20 minutes, it does definitely seem like there's a correlation between the Battery Tender, and the Viper Alarm's Shock Sensor.
When he tested the sensitivity, IMO, it still seemed quite sensitive, just taking a small thud with the hand at the top of the roof near the windshield.
So, I might call him up again, and ask him to lower it again much further. He was not sure, but believed there were either 8, or 12 adjustment levels to this sensor.
I'm actually not all that concerned about having high sensitivity on this shock sensor. I figure if something, or somebody hits the truck with something, what good is the alarm sounding, when there might be body, and/or paint damage occuring anyway.
I'm more concerned about break-ins, attempts of theft, or more commonly, attempts at burglary of contents, a common occurence here it seems. Mark
Just a couple of updates.
Firstly, the A/C. This afternoon, and yesterday, two days in the 90's here, (and in fact it's still 91 here right now at 8pm) upon initial start-up of the vehicle, the clutch does cycle. Today, and yesterday, the clutch stays engaged for about 10-12 seconds, then kicks off for about 5-6 seconds.
It seems to do this for x amount of minutes during warm up, then when I take off, and drive, I'm estimating 3-5 minutes later, and the temp gauge is coming up, the compressor then stays engaged for much much longer periods.
Again, it seems every time that I've pulled over, whether Ive been driving the truck 10 minutes, or 30-40 minutes, I pop the hood, take a peek, stand there for 5-10 minutes, and the clutch stays engaged.
So, with all this said, I do not know in any way whether this is to be considered "normal" operation, and how this vehicles A/C is supposed to work per factory?
Inside temps, measured with a digital probe thermometer are measuring between 42.7 to 46 degrees at the center vent with AC set to max cool, and high fan.
OK, now onto part two, about the Alarm System. I brought the truck to the Alarm Dealer this afternoon.
The Shock Sensor is adjustable via remote control Key Fob, but even the owner had a bit of a hard time going through the instructions, and while it can be done via owner with a bit of Alarm Electronic Savvy, I think it was best I didn't toy with it, and let him adjust it.
Anyway, he claimed it was set at the most sensitive setting, and was definitely too much, so he lowered the sensitivity about 4-5 levels lower.
I hooked up the Battery Tender in the Shop, armed the Alarm, and for a period of about 2-3 minutes, all seemed good. I figured problem solved.
Anyway, after coming home, I parked the vehicle, re-connected the Battery Tender, Armed the Alarm, and then waited. I waited 5, 10, 15 minutes, and thought all was cured, but nope, the Alarm went off. I disarmed the Alarm, Armed it again, and waited again. So, the first time it tripped the alarm 15 minutes later.
This second time, about 20 minutes passed until the Alarm tripped again.
So, with that said, from initially tripping at about 30-45 seconds after arming prior to these new adjustments, to now taking 15-20 minutes, it does definitely seem like there's a correlation between the Battery Tender, and the Viper Alarm's Shock Sensor.
When he tested the sensitivity, IMO, it still seemed quite sensitive, just taking a small thud with the hand at the top of the roof near the windshield.
So, I might call him up again, and ask him to lower it again much further. He was not sure, but believed there were either 8, or 12 adjustment levels to this sensor.
I'm actually not all that concerned about having high sensitivity on this shock sensor. I figure if something, or somebody hits the truck with something, what good is the alarm sounding, when there might be body, and/or paint damage occuring anyway.
I'm more concerned about break-ins, attempts of theft, or more commonly, attempts at burglary of contents, a common occurence here it seems. Mark
Last edited:
MarkD51
Full Access Member
Thanks Lester for responding, but still, as you can see above, the issue with the Alarm tripping with battery tender hooked up is not solved.
I'll of course update this thread if/when I have some more info.
As for the AC in the Tahoe, I was truly never that impressed with the degree of cooling in this truck, even when it was brand spanking new.
It always seemed like it lacked (for a better word) of needing more fan speed, and air being pushed out of the vents. Like the fan was sort of "weak".
One reason perhaps one will notice this, is there;s a whole lot of cabin space to cool in the Tahoe, versus a smaller car, or pickup truck.
It was one key reason I opted for a white exterior, and grey leather interior, figuring darker colors would've made the situation of efficient cooling even worse.
Maybe I need a clear plastic curtain behind the front seat?! Like Wharehouses use for walk in freezers! LOL Mark
Yes, the color does help, been there done that.
I know your issue with the alarm is not solved, that being said you are on the right track, the sensitivity just amplifies the ripples generated from the sensors detection mechanism to a point that will trigger it, get it low enough and I think you will be ok.....
I know your issue with the alarm is not solved, that being said you are on the right track, the sensitivity just amplifies the ripples generated from the sensors detection mechanism to a point that will trigger it, get it low enough and I think you will be ok.....
MarkD51
Full Access Member
As for the further reduction of sensitivity of the Shock Sensor finally permitting the marriage of Alarm, and Battery Tender living together happily, I'm of course still skeptical, and worried. That there's still that 50/50 chance of success?
Only one way to find out, have him lower the Shock Sensor settings all the way down, and go from there?
The Alarm Shop owner did express his dislike of the Optima Batteries, saying he's owned a few, and noted that they seem to be quite poor at holding a charge for any length of time.
I seem to recall this being mentioned here as well, that the Optima Batteries aren't all they're cracked up to be. (Even though they too are probably made by Interstate)
Since my Optima Yellow Top is relatively new, not even 7 months old, I'll hang onto it for the time being, but he suggested next time, if/when the truck again needs a new Battery, just go with a good, regular Lead-Acid Interstate Battery. Mark
Only one way to find out, have him lower the Shock Sensor settings all the way down, and go from there?
The Alarm Shop owner did express his dislike of the Optima Batteries, saying he's owned a few, and noted that they seem to be quite poor at holding a charge for any length of time.
I seem to recall this being mentioned here as well, that the Optima Batteries aren't all they're cracked up to be. (Even though they too are probably made by Interstate)
Since my Optima Yellow Top is relatively new, not even 7 months old, I'll hang onto it for the time being, but he suggested next time, if/when the truck again needs a new Battery, just go with a good, regular Lead-Acid Interstate Battery. Mark
samotahoe
Full Access Member
sounds like normal operation for the a/c
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