Big 3 Wiring Upgrade

[Rollin Thunder]

my lights dont dim enless i try to move somthing that is at its max, like a seat thats all the way back or a window thats all the way up or down. no dimming even before my new alternator or battery. now its even less.

 

[WrenchGuy]

Yeah, I realize that the bigger cable is better, but I have a whole crapload of 4g laying around :lol:

I've got a big dumb stereo, but it's only pushing 1200W total :yesnod:

I think I'll just go with the 4g for now and if I don't see any improvement with the light dimming (I get it when I roll down multiple windows) then I'll order some of that fancy wire from the Intrawebs.

Go to a shop and ask for 1/0 welding cable some guys have some laying around and may give it to you.

 

[thdrill]

Well our new vehicles have lots of electronics. Adding to it doesn't help. The Big 3 would help fuel efficiency cuz what burns it? With that part of the electrical working well its helping a little more. Stock is just enough to run the truck efficiently.

Maybe i'm misunderstanding...the Big 3 would help fuel efficiency because it provides a shorter electrical loop to the battery thereby decreasing the work load of the engine and bypassing the remainder of the electrical circuit? Or am I not getting what you are trying to say?

But what does the Big 3 help "burn"?

 

[WrenchGuy]

Maybe i'm misunderstanding...the Big 3 would help fuel efficiency because it provides a shorter electrical loop to the battery thereby decreasing the work load of the engine and bypassing the remainder of the electrical circuit? Or am I not getting what you are trying to say?

But what does the Big 3 help "burn"?

I guess it would help with a more efficient firing order and the abiding components.

 

[boostaholic]

Less strain on the electrical system = less effort produced by the charging system. The higher the voltage to the spark plugs, the more complete combustion of the engine. The less effort from the crank to turn the alternator to produce electrical energy, the less parasitic drag upon the engine. There are a number of benefits to a more efficient automotive electrical system. Some are much more noticeable (voltage/amperage increase) and some are less (fuel mileage due to increased spark energy). Most of us will not assume rewiring the alternator and running better grounds for the charging system will give you 2mpg. It does, however, help the truck run better and is therefore a cheap and easy upgrade making it all the reason I need for rationalizing the small amount of time and money involved in the modification.

 

[thdrill]

so do you undo it everytime you bring your truck to the dealership for servicing...otherwise sounds like it is something I should look more into.

 

[boostaholic]

No way, you are improving on the factory wiring and there is no way in hell a service manager would question your warranty on an improvement you made to the vehicle.

 

[bzbatl]

Go to a shop and ask for 1/0 welding cable some guys have some laying around and may give it to you.

What kind of shop? I always prefer to get things locally if I can help it.

It's not that I'm afraid of the Internet... I just like to see things in person.

 

[WrenchGuy]

What kind of shop? I always prefer to get things locally if I can help it.

It's not that I'm afraid of the Internet... I just like to see things in person.

Any of em look for shops that do accessories for trucks and such. They change wire often and there may be a few good feet of wire in there old runs and stuff.

 

[02Yukon]

Found the Welding Wire at Tractor Supply for 2.50 a foot. FYI

 

[qlc1964]

big three

it does make a difference i did it to.
i think this spring i will get a alt from a 96 to 99 they half more amps than
my 95 yukon. i will have to drill holes in my bracket for the bolt patern.

i did a dual alt set up

 

[WrenchGuy]

Found the Welding Wire at Tractor Supply for 2.50 a foot. FYI

weldingsupply.com is good and the wire I bought was from trystar.com excellent quality from there. 15 different colors and you can put up to 50 characters on the wire and have it say whatever you like.

 

[bzbatl]

Went ahead and ponied up the $80 for some 1/0 Kicker flex cable and did this mod today. Works beautifully, as soon as I connected the negative to the top post everything came back on (I disconnected the negative from the side post first).

Pumped my subs up, turned on the high beams, and dropped all the windows at the same time. Not even a slight dimming. Voltage dial points at about 15 and stays steady.

I used the same ground point on the engine block as the OP photo (right above power steering reservoir) and bolted to the factory ground on the firewall (high up, almost at the hood above the power steering booster).

The negative I dropped straight down to a 14mm bolt that's on a bracket at the very bottom of the truck. Wiped some anti-corrosion grease on the joint and pushed the boot as far up the ring terminal as I could.

 

[thdrill]

Looking to do this mod and have the supplies. Can anyone post pics of where they placed their wires?

Thanx

 

[Slammed]

yeah I could use some pics too and thanks

Looking to do this mod and have the supplies. Can anyone post pics of where they placed their wires?

Thanx

 

[bzbatl]

First pic.

 

[bzbatl]

1. Positive goes straight from battery to alternator. This one is non-negotiable.

2. The negative goes from the battery straight down all the way to the lowest part of the frame. There are two bolts about an inch apart, basically behind where the fog lights are. Pick one and attach the cable.

3.1. I ran the final one from the bolt that is directly underneath the big "GROUND" label on the engine block (the bracket that the alternator is hooked to). In the above attachment, look at the red box, there is a red sleeve on my ground point to the left of it. That's the bottom bolt of the alternator bracket. It is directly above the reservoir for your power steering fluid.

3.2. From that point, I ran it up to the firewall at the highest point, basically where the hood meets up with the windshield. There is a factory ground wire right there.

Pics tomorrow.

 

[thdrill]

1. Positive goes straight from battery to alternator. This one is non-negotiable.

2. The negative goes from the battery straight down all the way to the lowest part of the frame. There are two bolts about an inch apart, basically behind where the fog lights are. Pick one and attach the cable.

3.1. I ran the final one from the bolt that is directly underneath the big "GROUND" label on the engine block (the bracket that the alternator is hooked to). In the above attachment, look at the red box, there is a red sleeve on my ground point to the left of it. That's the bottom bolt of the alternator bracket. It is directly above the reservoir for your power steering fluid.

3.2. From that point, I ran it up to the firewall at the highest point, basically where the hood meets up with the windshield. There is a factory ground wire right there.

Pics tomorrow.

BZ,
I found the attachment point for all of the steps but step 3.2...In looking at the firewall section I note two screws on the driver side of the engine. The first has a flat silver "weaved" wire attached to it and the other looks like it is behind the brake booster and has a wire that attaches to the hood. Which one is the ground or are either acceptable?

Thanks

 

[WrenchGuy]

Weaved is the ground your on it. I ran mine from there to the alt bracket. Im gonna put the new alt on this week and run that Battery ground to where he was talkin. I just stuck mine to the bat tery retainer bolt by the headlight. Worked too. But I'm gonna have a battery bank in the back so that to frame will make it nice.

 

[thdrill]

Just a question...I did the Big 3 and reinstalled my TrueFlow AIT and my Tahoe runs pretty good afterwards. However I am noticing that the sound of the engine has changed. It sounds as if it is higher pitch with an almost "scratchy" sound on acceleration. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what might be causing this?

Basically used 4ga wire and wired as BZ suggested although I put an 80 amp fuse on the alt-batter wire. Also I reset the computer so it is learing all over again.

So I don't know if it is a computer relearning sound (although it didn't make it before), has something to do with the Big 3 wiring or TrueFlow AIT (once again I don't remember the sound last time I put the AIT on), or because of the modifications it is calling for a higher octane fuel and it is pinging?

I have also noticed it takes more time to get to operating temp approx 210 and that the voltage meter flucuates as I accelerate and decelerate...normal?