How To Detail Your Ride

[Trend Setta]

Okay, I've had a lot of questions on what kind of products I use and everything that I do to my Tahoe (wasnt sure where to post this)...Here we go:

1) Hand wash your car/truck with a good soap

2) Get a claybar at your local autozone/wal-mart I know meguiars makes some decent ones, once you get the clay bar open it up and get some soap and put it on the clay bar, and rub on your vehicles paint and make sure that it stays slick while it's on your paint, and you basically just wash your car with the little clay bar..once you finish washing your car with the clay bar...rinse...I use the Poorboys Clay Bar

3. Get some polish would recommend Menzerna Polish (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-final-finish-po85rd.html)

4. Use some glaze - I use Red Moose Machine Glaze

5. Then some wax...I use the Meguiars NXT Ver. 2.0

6. I usually go over everything when I'm done with a Quick Detail Spray..I use Meguiars Ultimate Quick Detail (http://www.meguiars.com/estore/products/product_G14422.jpg)

(I also use a buffer when putting on polish and glaze and use Microfiber towels when removing anything I put wax on by hand)

These were taken after a nice detail

 

[sasquatch094]

wow..

 

[MadMedwyn]

Yep looks better than the ones in the showroom. How much time do you spend to do an entire detail? It takes me forever to just polish mine.

 

[ugachs24]

You seem like you know a lot about this Trend setta so I have a question for you :lol: . I brought my 2004 Tahoe to a carwash in Tampa a couple weeks ago. I told them to hand wash it and wax it, and it cost $150, so I figured they would do a pretty good job. I was wrong. When I got it out in the sun the next day I realized they must have used dirty rags or towels on it, it has tiny little scratches everywhere (looks like a spiderweb :mad2: ) and my truck is navy blue so it shows up pretty bad.

I've put two coats of Meguiars wax on it and it helped a little bit, but it still doesn't look good. Is there a way to get it out :confused2: ? I'll try to take some pictures of it this afternoon if I can, but it's cloudy in Atlanta today so it may not show.

 

[Trend Setta]

Madmedwyn - well to do all those steps look forward to spending about 4 - 6 hrs but once you do all those steps, you wont need to do it for awhile I did those steps and now all I do is wax it once every 2 weeks and go over with it with a quick detailer...takes about 2 hrs

Ugachs24-
I'm guessing that you car looks simular to this

These are your average swirl marks...these can be caused by simply not washing your car the correct way...the people you took it to obviously didnt know what they were doing haha...first mistake is that these "professional" detailers could probably care less about your car just want the money...I have never taken my tahoe to one...not to be rude or anything but in most cases like this, if you want something done right your probably gunna have to it yourself...easyiest way is to do the steps...and you may want to "polish" it twice not wax...wax will just cover them up polish should take them out...use a buffer when polishing and just work it into the paint and you should be good to go, and you will have to the clay bar...b/c you want your paint to wax free when you polish it...I've seen way to many people just start polishing they're car after it has a coat of wax on it...and it takes about a day to get all that polish off haha...bc wax protects and it won't let anything through it...so def need to clay it first then polish...then wax

 

[sasquatch094]

what kind of pad do you use when u use the buffer?? hey and how much do u say this all costed if you went out to the store right now and picked all of it up?? that looks sooo nice man, im hoping if i buy the same stuff it will come out similar atleast.. what kind of job then do you do when it needs another wash?? do u use jsut soap and water or what?? thanks

 

[Trend Setta]

Ok I'm going to make a complete list of EVERYTHING you will need.

Car wash: Best bet it going to be your higher end washes at any auto store or you can order them off the internet. Meguiars NXT or Gold Class are both good. There is an endless selection when ordering off of the net. Poorboys and Optimum are two of my personal favorite. Also when washing try to use two different buckets. One with the mixture of carwash/water and another with straight water. So basically you get your mitt wet with the wash/water mix then when your done doing one panel of the car you rinse it in the other bucket then repeat as needed. Also a good idea is to have a few different mitts(painted panels, wheels/tires, rocker panels, etc)

Claybar: When you use a claybar you need to have the bar itself and some sort of lubricant to allow it to slide across the paint. I would not buy one from the auto store, get one off the web. Poorboys has the claybars along with others good companies. When using the clay bar do sections at a time(2'x2') and try not to allow the lubricant to dry, just rinse it off. Before using the clay bar the paint needs to be free of wax so you can wash with a small amount of dawn soap but its not exactly the best for the paint, but it works.

At this point your ready for any paint correction that is needed. Intense polish, light polish...just depends on the condition of the paint.

Polishing: When it comes to polishing, you can do it two different ways. One way is by hand and the other is by machine. I do not mess with hand polishing because it is so time consuming so I have a porter cable polisher. When you do it by hand, you just put it on like wax almost just you keep on working in the compound till it hazes over. When you do this use a microfiber applicator. Really simple there. Maching polishing is a bit more complicated but not hard at all. You will have a polisher, backing plate, and different pads. There are countless pads for different uses it just depends on the type of polish. Spread the compound in a small section on low speed then turn the speed up to work it in. If you use a heavier compound you will most likely need to follow up with a light polish.

After polishing your paint should look a lot better than it did before. You might not have a completely swirl paint but it may have been in such bad condition that it needs a rotary buff in which case I can't help you there because I'm not at that level yet. Rotary buffers will do a lot better job BUT then can eat through paint if you dont know what your doing.

Glaze/Sealant: Here is where your paint color will come into play. It all depends on if your paint is dark, light, metallic, whatever. From what I know on darker colors such as black, blues, reds, a product called red moose machine glaze is great. On ligher colors and metallics I like Klasse AIO(all in one) and sealant. These products have no buffing properties to them so they can be applied by hand or with a finishing pad on a polisher.

Wax: There are many different waxes out there and they all serve different purposes. It all depends on the type of finish your looking for. My personal favorites are Meguiars NXTv2.0, Poorboys Nattys blue, and P21S. If you read up on waxes, most will tell what kind of finish they will give whether it be glossy, deep, shine, or protection.

Quick Detail: This is an optional step to take but I like to do it for a last look over. Poorboys has one, meguiars QD does a good job, and I really like FK425. All you do is spray it on and wipe off. This will allow you to check and make sure you got all the wax off and will give an added "pop" to the paint.

Below I will list some of the products that I have mentioned and what I recommend to use.

Car Wash
http://www.autogeek.net/pbss32.html
http://www.autogeek.net/mg12664.html
http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-car-wash.html
http://www.fk1usa.com/products-consumer.htm#1016

Claybars
http://specialtymotoring.com/ck-1002.html
http://www.autogeek.net/piulpoclkit.html

Polisher/Backing Plate/Pads
http://www.autogeek.net/poca746varap.html
http://www.autogeek.net/lc43125.html
http://www.autogeek.net/lc-ccs-6inch-pads.html

Polish
http://specialtymotoring.com/paclandpo.html

Glaze/Sealants
http://specialtymotoring.com/ck-1021.html
http://specialtymotoring.com/ck-1013.html

http://www.autogeek.net/klasalpolsea2.html
http://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss.html

Wax
http://specialtymotoring.com/pb-1037.html
http://www.autogeek.net/mg12718.html
http://www.autogeek.net/p2concarwax.html
http://www.autogeek.net/pinsouvwax.html

Quick Detailer
http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-ultimate-quik-detailer.html
http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-spray-wax.html
http://www.autogeek.net/pbsg16.html
http://specialtymotoring.com/ck-1019.html
http://www.fk1usa.com/products-consumer.htm#425


In the end it gets pretty expensive but for people like myself its a hobby. You will spend probably $300 on the first purchase just to get the polisher and pads then from there on you just buy items as you need them. Remember these are products that I have used and recommend but theres many other things to try out. If any of you want to get some more info on detailing and are really interested in learning check out www.autopia.org and you can get products from there also. I have had good luck purchasing from www.autogeek.net and www.specialtymotoringproducts.com

I know this isnt the most detailed post but it should get most of you started. If any of you have questions feel free to ask.

:cya:

 

[dirtysouth]

would it be easy to mess up my paint or put swirl marks in with the polisher, what pad should i use for the polish (and what kind). and could i put the KAIO by hand? Thanks again man i think im tryin to out do you!

 

[ugachs24]

Ugachs24-
I'm guessing that you car looks simular to this

These are your average swirl marks...these can be caused by simply not washing your car the correct way...the people you took it to obviously didnt know what they were doing haha...first mistake is that these "professional" detailers could probably care less about your car just want the money...I have never taken my tahoe to one...not to be rude or anything but in most cases like this, if you want something done right your probably gunna have to it yourself...easyiest way is to do the steps...and you may want to "polish" it twice not wax...wax will just cover them up polish should take them out...use a buffer when polishing and just work it into the paint and you should be good to go, and you will have to the clay bar...b/c you want your paint to wax free when you polish it...I've seen way to many people just start polishing they're car after it has a coat of wax on it...and it takes about a day to get all that polish off haha...bc wax protects and it won't let anything through it...so def need to clay it first then polish...then wax

Mine is not quite that bad, but it's pretty close. Thanks a million for all those tips on getting them out, man. I never would have been able to come up with all that myself. I wouldn't have known where to start.

I have two more questions, though. Is a buffer the same thing as a polisher? and can you just use Dawn instead of a clay bar to strip the wax, or do you need to use a clay bar. I've never used one before.

Thanks again man.

 

[Rivieraracing]

Thanks for that very indepth post on polishings do's and do not's, alot of knowledge that I never knew before!! :thumbsup:

 

[MadMedwyn]

Yeah I've got some minor swirl marks also. Maybe when spring break rolls around I'll set aside a couple days and not drive in order to clean it up right. We've had a ton of bad weather lately and the ride's not looking so hot.

 

[ugachs24]

Yeah I've got some minor swirl marks also. Maybe when spring break rolls around I'll set aside a couple days and not drive in order to clean it up right. We've had a ton of bad weather lately and the ride's not looking so hot.

Yeah, I try and keep the miles off of my 2004 Tahoe so it stays in the garage at my house in Atlanta most of the time, but it's still not warm there yet. If it were here I'd work on it this weekend, but 50 degrees isn't awesome car detailing weather. I may have to hold off until April on working on her but maybe I'll know a lot about it before I start the process.

 

[Trend Setta]

dirtysouth: The purpose of using a polisher is to get rid of swirl marks. It is nearly impossible to mess up your paint using the porter cable unless you are actually sitting there on the highest speed in one spot. The AIO can be applied by hand, that is fine, just use a microfiber applicator. The polish you would use different pads. If your using an intense polish you'll use a light cutting pad. If your using a light polish you would use the white polishing pad. For the AIO you could use the white polishing pad or a finishing pad, either would work fine.


ugachs: You will still want to claybar the car no matter what. The paint will come out looking and feeling better and the claybar will get all the dirt, overspray, and other contaniments in the paint. You would wash with dawn first then clay after that. Basically the dawn with get some of the wax off and the claybar will take care of the rest. I would love to have 50* weather to work in. Right now its snowing here :nonod:

 

[Design]

Just to chime in and agree, you can not screw up your paint using the Porter Cable 7424 polisher. It is simply the best machine ever. It is a random orbit style. Autogeek has some videos about how to use it and I think that Poor Boys website does as well. I have owned one for about two years. Just bought the Tahoe last Saturday so as of yet haven’t used it on there (been raining). Once you cough up the initial cost you will want to cut and buff your vehicles all the time.
If you have never done this level of detailing to your paint spend some time on the sites listed above. The techniques they will show you make it easy and take away the fear that you will damage your paint.
After I clay a vehicle for the first time I will also use a light cutting/leveling product before sealing and waxing. This further insures that the vehicle will be slicker than you can possibly imagine. These are low to medium abrasives that contain now wax or silicon products. My personal preferences are the SSR1 and SSR2 from Poor Boys.
I’ve talked to so many people that are hesitant to do this but seriously if you can wash your own truck than you can do this. It’s a combination of technique, tools, and patience.

Jon

 

[tast101]

See what you did, I'm gonna have to order me a detailin kit, hahahaha. What do you think of this as a little starter kit?

http://www.autogeek.net/ultimate-detailing-machine-pro-kit.html

or

http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-7424-accessories.html

or

http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html

 

[Trend Setta]

See what you did, I'm gonna have to order me a detailin kit, hahahaha. What do you think of this as a little starter kit?

http://www.autogeek.net/ultimate-detailing-machine-pro-kit.html

or

http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-7424-accessories.html

or

http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html

:smilielol: haha, well atleast you'll be rollin around in a clean Yuk now! Well they're all really good! But i'd go with the 3rd one...would recommend getting a clay bar, polish, and some wax while your at it from them...you will be simply amazed when you get all this stuff and do your first "REAL" detail...

Oh yeah and if you get on youtube.com there are TONS of videos of people doing instuctional videos on polish, wax, claybars and what not...so may want to check that out as well

 

[Design]

Actually after buying the Tahoe the next tool I need is a quality step ladder. Being 5’9†and owning only mid to small cars before now I’ll need something to reach the roof.

A technical question though: I have used painter’s tape (the blue stuff) to mask over the edges of trim in the past to avoid the white residue. I have seen recommendations to spray the trim with tire dressing to prevent this. What do you guys do to avoid getting wax on the roof rack and door trim? I might eventually remove the side trim but for now it stays on.

Another thing that I like to do is use the clay bar on the glass. I actually have a buffing pad from Autogeek that has the recessed pocket for the clay to stay in. This makes it really easy and fast to do large surfaces such as glass, hoods, and roofs. It does not work as well on the vertical surfaces like doors. But on older glass I use the clay bar then hit it with a little stoner’s glass cleaner.

 

[Trend Setta]

Actually after buying the Tahoe the next tool I need is a quality step ladder. Being 5’9†and owning only mid to small cars before now I’ll need something to reach the roof.

A technical question though: I have used painter’s tape (the blue stuff) to mask over the edges of trim in the past to avoid the white residue. I have seen recommendations to spray the trim with tire dressing to prevent this. What do you guys do to avoid getting wax on the roof rack and door trim? I might eventually remove the side trim but for now it stays on.

Another thing that I like to do is use the clay bar on the glass. I actually have a buffing pad from Autogeek that has the recessed pocket for the clay to stay in. This makes it really easy and fast to do large surfaces such as glass, hoods, and roofs. It does not work as well on the vertical surfaces like doors. But on older glass I use the clay bar then hit it with a little stoner’s glass cleaner.

Well...I would tape it off, and do it by hand around the plastics...then buff every thing else...because once that wax hit's the plastic you get to look at some gross white resudue for a while :nono:

And I'm not too familiar with the claybar buffer...sorry

 

[tast101]

Well...I would tape it off, and do it by hand around the plastics...then buff every thing else...because once that wax hit's the plastic you get to look at some gross white resudue for a while :nono:

And I'm not too familiar with the claybar buffer...sorry

Yea I saw that, wasn't sure about it, I always did it by hand.

http://www.autogeek.net/paintwork-clay-pad-applicator.html

 

[tast101]

You got me sold, just placed my order on Autogeek.net. Give it a go on my truck, and as I get good my buddy said he'll pay me to do his mazda 6. So soon it'll pay for its self. I ordered the Porter Cable 7424 & Pad Kit. http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html