Where to install/run 0gauge in 07 tahoe

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chuds

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I need help. I am trying to install a 1/0 gauge wire into the Tahoe 07 cabin.
Where do I drill the 1.1" hole. (will use Streetwire firewall mount)
I do not want to use the grommet that houses the wires on the upper left hand side of the vechicle, to thick and worried about EMI noise.

And just in case any one is interested, here is my project.

Current 07 Z71 with Bose and Navigation-DVD with DVD entertainment

With research, found that the HU is a perfect flat 20-20k output, no need for clean-sweep, or fosgate for correction

D piller - remove bose tweets, install Infiniti Kappa 4"
front doors - remove bose speakers, install Infiniti Kappa Perfect 6.1
rear doors - remove bose speakers, install Infiniti Kappa 6.1 component
remove bose woofer (front console), built 6.5" sub encloser, using Kicker 6.5 shallow mount
add 10" sub box-back, using kicker 10" shallow

Need to keep bose amp (wanted to remove); however, if removed will lose chimes, on-star and nav, will add speaker to bose front left channel.
If someone knows of a way to remove the bose (wanted to install Sony 4M-XS amp, fits perfectly, now cannot) and retain the chimes, on-star and nav, please inform me. I have checked with Pac, JP Custom and others, they have said you must keep the bose and run a speaker to the driver front.

PacOEM-1 from head unit to 2 eq's then 3 amps.

I am stuck at the 0 gauge install, please any one HELP !!!

Thanks Much !!!
Chuds
 

b's07hoe

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What I did was run it to the driver side and through the factory grommet. I replaced my HU with the Alpine w205 b200 package and replaced he factory speakers with alpine type r comp(front) and coax(rear) powered off a pdx 4.100 hidden under the console. Wiring supplied by PAC OS3 and SWX-JACK to keep onstar and steering wheel controls. Chimes play through os3 chime module, onstar through rear factory speakers, and figring out a place to put my 2 12w3's off the pdx 1.600. More info then you needed but just finished and wanted to gloat :).
 

Gambler

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I think JK suggested at one point the place of preference for him is drilling a hole through the firewall right about where a clutch would be if we had one. Also, I think that your onstar etc will continue to work as long as you don't replace your head unit and you use the pac adapter you mentioned.
 

Gambler

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Also your 0/1 wire shouldn't be much more than a half inch in diameter. 1.1" is way too big, unless your grommet is overkill.
 

chuds

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How I wired the 1/0

Gambler

Thanks for the reply. Already resolved the issue.

Use Kicker 1/0 flex (and I mean flex) pwr cabling. I will never use anything but this. It will bend to any configuration. The cable OD is 5/8" (all should be carefull with cheap 1/0 cable, it is more plastic then copper!). The firewall gromet I was going to use was from StreeWires, which was more than a simple grommet and thus large and thick.

I was not happy with any firewall location in which to bring the 1/0 thru. I was goint to drill, not happy with that either (in the firewall). I did not want to use the wire harness bundle (drivers side) (already used it for other wire and an 8g).

Therefore, my fix was to run the cable from battery, accross the back of the firewall, down (following GM split loom) and routed/installed within the frame on drivers side (again following existing GM split loom). Then drilled 3/4" hole near 2nd row seats behind seat (under the pull out tray). The 1/0 was first installed within a new split loom and then taped throughout. Installation was hours; however, it is perfect!

Now for the PAC OEM-1, per PAC, On-Star, NAV and chimes will not work the same if the Bose is removed and the head unit is retained. I will test this later

Thanks Again
Chuds
 

Gambler

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Now for the PAC OEM-1, per PAC, On-Star, NAV and chimes will not work the same if the Bose is removed and the head unit is retained. I will test this later

I don't see how the bose amp would contribute to the on-star stuff, I have to think that as long as you leave your head-unit intact that everything will still work. I don't have the Bose, and my onstar works fine... Please let us know what happens when you try it.
 

Gambler

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I finally got around to running my amp cable, I spent quite a while trying to find the factory "grommet" to run my wires. Turns out the "grommet" is the size of a baseball staring me in the face. For any future gazers, if looking under the hood, the "grommet" is behind the fusebox against the firewall on the drivers side, and looks like a cone of rubber extruding from the firewall (with a bundle of wires in the middle). If looking from the footwell of the drivers side is fairly far up and to the left.
 

brdnboy

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I need help. I am trying to install a 1/0 gauge wire into the Tahoe 07 cabin.
Where do I drill the 1.1" hole. (will use Streetwire firewall mount)
I do not want to use the grommet that houses the wires on the upper left hand side of the vechicle, to thick and worried about EMI noise.

And just in case any one is interested, here is my project.

Current 07 Z71 with Bose and Navigation-DVD with DVD entertainment

With research, found that the HU is a perfect flat 20-20k output, no need for clean-sweep, or fosgate for correction

D piller - remove bose tweets, install Infiniti Kappa 4"
front doors - remove bose speakers, install Infiniti Kappa Perfect 6.1
rear doors - remove bose speakers, install Infiniti Kappa 6.1 component
remove bose woofer (front console), built 6.5" sub encloser, using Kicker 6.5 shallow mount
add 10" sub box-back, using kicker 10" shallow

Need to keep bose amp (wanted to remove); however, if removed will lose chimes, on-star and nav, will add speaker to bose front left channel.
If someone knows of a way to remove the bose (wanted to install Sony 4M-XS amp, fits perfectly, now cannot) and retain the chimes, on-star and nav, please inform me. I have checked with Pac, JP Custom and others, they have said you must keep the bose and run a speaker to the driver front.

PacOEM-1 from head unit to 2 eq's then 3 amps.

I am stuck at the 0 gauge install, please any one HELP !!!

Thanks Much !!!
Chuds

I was wondering if you have made any progress on your system? I am considering a similar combination. Kappa components for doors and A pillars and something for the D pillar (tweets or 3.5-4 inch). Does a 4 inch fit the D pillar with no mods or is trimming required? How are you powering the 4" speakers? a crossover from the amp used for the doors or a separate amp? What amps are you using for each part of the system? Let me know what you have learned! Also does anyone know anything about the factory stereo (non-nav). If i use a harness to keep the factory radio with aftermarket system how will it perform? Will i need a clean sweep or similar product? I have a non-bose system (is it amplified?) will any after market stereo equipment prevent chimes, onstar etc from working on a non-bose system? Thanks to anyone who knows more than me and wants to share.

Edit: Oh yah, and how about ipod interfaces? Text display (scrolling), full control from stereo for playlists, artists? Compatible with the other harness for after market amps? What's available? Thanks again
 
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