MarkD51
Full Access Member
Some of you, maybe Lester "might" remember me, and some issues I was having with my Tahoe, and spoke of them here about a year ago
One was the AC issues, and had a new Delphi Compressor, Drier, Orifice Tube, flush, evacuate, charge, and so far, all seems well with that.
At the wrap up with this AC issue last year though, my brakes seemed to go to total hell. Like I had no brakes, pedal hard up top, seemingly a lot of effort to stop the truck.
There were no ABS issues, no lights on dash, no leaks found anywhere.
I had upgraded my Tahoe some years back with Stillen larger Calipers with the larger Oval Pistons, with new High Performance Pads,brand new Slotted Rotors, and new Braided SS Brake lines (3) front and back. These new Calipers for a short while were held as suspect temporarily, I was just unsure at that point if these somehow went bad?
A couple of more recent bleeds one a month ago, and it seemed a little better, but still no cigar, just too much effort, and with some chat with another member in one of the other Tahoe Forums, (Sunlit Comet), he seemed to believe I had a bad Power Booster.
Although not seeming to be the Booster, was hearing no air whooshing, no apparent bleed off testing the brakes at the pedal, I decided to go ahead and swap the Booster, and this was done 2 Saturdays ago.
I purchased a A1 Cardone rebuilt at A-Zone, price with Core Exchange came to $113 I believe, and was smart enough to also locate-buy a new Brake Switch Retaining Clip at the local Chevy Dealer here for $2.50.
This was a real "fun" job, taking about a little over 2 hour's time, and thankfully I own every 3/8" Snap On Extension made, both Standard Drive, and Wobble Drive, because I virtually needed every one of them.
Seeing everything wasn't a problem, it was getting to them, the 4 Booster Stud Nuts, and the Brake Switch Retaining Clip. I wasn't so concerned of losing the clip, which I did temporarily, but getting a little aggressive on its removal, it was slightly bent from removal, and of course chose to use the new clip upon re-installation of the Switch. (before I began, I of course disconnected the battery leads)
With the Steering Column in the way, there was a need on many of the Booster Nuts, to slip the Ratchet Extensions through the Steering Column gaps first, then install the Deep Well Socket and Universal Swivel.
While I was told that I could perhaps remove the Booster, without disconnecting the brake lines to the Master Cylinder, I figured that I would've mangled the two brake lines, and went ahead and removed the MC first. With a MC Bleeder Kit on hand, I quickly plugged both Ports on the MC, and probably only lost about 4-5 drops of Brake Fluid.
Upon MC removal, and inspection, the MC was as clean as a whistle, so I figured at the time there was no sense replacing something that isn't broken.
Re-installation of the Booster went fairly smooth, insuring to slightly cant-tilt the Booster so the Brake Pedal Pin-Stud would properly position and mate up again, all went smoothly with the replacement of the 4 Nuts, new Brake Switch Retaining Clip, and re-installation of the Master Cylinder.
I did do a quick vacuum bleed at all 4 corners, drew about 8-10 oz, but didn't see much in the way of air if any. A good sign perhaps.
A road test did confirm the Booster was the culprit, the pedal effort at the top 2" of Pedal Travel was much much better, the truck now stops with much less pedal effort like I remember it once used to.
Problem solved! Although somewhat trying, and "testy", I figure I saved myself a good $200 just in labor charges alone. A great feeling knowing I took my time, and did the job carefully, and correctly on my Hoe.
Mark
One was the AC issues, and had a new Delphi Compressor, Drier, Orifice Tube, flush, evacuate, charge, and so far, all seems well with that.
At the wrap up with this AC issue last year though, my brakes seemed to go to total hell. Like I had no brakes, pedal hard up top, seemingly a lot of effort to stop the truck.
There were no ABS issues, no lights on dash, no leaks found anywhere.
I had upgraded my Tahoe some years back with Stillen larger Calipers with the larger Oval Pistons, with new High Performance Pads,brand new Slotted Rotors, and new Braided SS Brake lines (3) front and back. These new Calipers for a short while were held as suspect temporarily, I was just unsure at that point if these somehow went bad?
A couple of more recent bleeds one a month ago, and it seemed a little better, but still no cigar, just too much effort, and with some chat with another member in one of the other Tahoe Forums, (Sunlit Comet), he seemed to believe I had a bad Power Booster.
Although not seeming to be the Booster, was hearing no air whooshing, no apparent bleed off testing the brakes at the pedal, I decided to go ahead and swap the Booster, and this was done 2 Saturdays ago.
I purchased a A1 Cardone rebuilt at A-Zone, price with Core Exchange came to $113 I believe, and was smart enough to also locate-buy a new Brake Switch Retaining Clip at the local Chevy Dealer here for $2.50.
This was a real "fun" job, taking about a little over 2 hour's time, and thankfully I own every 3/8" Snap On Extension made, both Standard Drive, and Wobble Drive, because I virtually needed every one of them.
Seeing everything wasn't a problem, it was getting to them, the 4 Booster Stud Nuts, and the Brake Switch Retaining Clip. I wasn't so concerned of losing the clip, which I did temporarily, but getting a little aggressive on its removal, it was slightly bent from removal, and of course chose to use the new clip upon re-installation of the Switch. (before I began, I of course disconnected the battery leads)
With the Steering Column in the way, there was a need on many of the Booster Nuts, to slip the Ratchet Extensions through the Steering Column gaps first, then install the Deep Well Socket and Universal Swivel.
While I was told that I could perhaps remove the Booster, without disconnecting the brake lines to the Master Cylinder, I figured that I would've mangled the two brake lines, and went ahead and removed the MC first. With a MC Bleeder Kit on hand, I quickly plugged both Ports on the MC, and probably only lost about 4-5 drops of Brake Fluid.
Upon MC removal, and inspection, the MC was as clean as a whistle, so I figured at the time there was no sense replacing something that isn't broken.
Re-installation of the Booster went fairly smooth, insuring to slightly cant-tilt the Booster so the Brake Pedal Pin-Stud would properly position and mate up again, all went smoothly with the replacement of the 4 Nuts, new Brake Switch Retaining Clip, and re-installation of the Master Cylinder.
I did do a quick vacuum bleed at all 4 corners, drew about 8-10 oz, but didn't see much in the way of air if any. A good sign perhaps.
A road test did confirm the Booster was the culprit, the pedal effort at the top 2" of Pedal Travel was much much better, the truck now stops with much less pedal effort like I remember it once used to.
Problem solved! Although somewhat trying, and "testy", I figure I saved myself a good $200 just in labor charges alone. A great feeling knowing I took my time, and did the job carefully, and correctly on my Hoe.
Mark
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