Towing uphill shudder!!

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downeys

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99 2Dr 4WD 58K miles. Suddenly, when towing my boat (5000 lbs) uphill the truck begins to shudder as if a wheel is falling off and the truck loses power. I let off the gas coast a bit and on it goes. This is at low rpm. After disconnecting the boat, the truck runs like new. This truck is a garage queen and only pulls the boat a couple of miles to and from the lake and I have been doing it for years. Any ideas?
 

downeys

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The first time was in 4th but yesterday I had it in 3rd.
 

downeys

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Well, the transmission has a fresh service as of this morning but nothing wrong there... must be an engine issue. What might cause severe missing under load?
 

Dr. Overkill

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I just cleared up a misfire that was severe under a load. Not towing, but if the RPMs were low, and I gave it modest to heavy amount of gas, it would shudder a lot. The coil wire terminal in the coil had developed substantial corrosion. The computer never set a code, either, after driving with it for a couple weeks (that's the next thing for me to figure out, if my computer is having issues--I know the CEL is not working, but the computer scanned fine and showed no codes).

Start checking into the likely ignition culprits--cap, rotor, wires, coil, plugs...

_dennis
 

downeys

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Thanks, getting closer

That sounds like maybe a direction to go. I will check ignition parts tomorrow. The truck sits in the garage for weeks at a time. FYI, I cleaned the MAF sensor and it made a great difference. Thanks for getting back to me.
 

GMCYukalade

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- Mine did this to me the other day, its not motor-related - probably TC related
 

downeys

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TC Related

I had the Tranmission serviced and the guy said it was just fine. He also "serviced" the TC but I am not convinced he touched it (typical instance of having to something yourself in order to make certain it gets done correctly or at all.) But back to your suggestion, what role does the TC have in 2WD mode? I haven't studied that yet. Oh, and where does one find a good shop manual for these trucks?

Thanks for your help guys.
 

tofargone

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May be off base, but I had a hell of a vibration in my truck up hill at about 50-60mph. Turned out to be the exhaust had a little play in it where the cat hooks to the manifold at the three bolt flange. Replaced the gaskets and no more vibration.
 

Dr. Overkill

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FYI, I cleaned the MAF sensor and it made a great difference. Thanks for getting back to me.

You talking about the screen? Any special procedures or cleaning agents for this? I've never cleaned mine, but I understand that some of the stuff in there is relatively delicate, so I wouldn't want to screw anything up.

I've seen some folks cut the screen out of theirs entirely, leaving just the sensor part. Can't see how that would make much difference in airflow, though.

_dennis
 

GMCYukalade

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When i say TC i don't mean Transfercase - i meant Tourqe Conv.
 

downeys

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There are specific products for cleaning the MAF sensor. NAPA carries it. The way the MAF works is based upon sensing temperature changes on the MAF screen when more air flows past, or through in this case, and the engine interprets that information. My MAF had a film built up on it which in effect insulated the MAF screen and caused errors.
 

downeys

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That makes sense. How does one check the viability of the Torque Converter?
 

Dr. Overkill

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There are specific products for cleaning the MAF sensor. NAPA carries it. The way the MAF works is based upon sensing temperature changes on the MAF screen when more air flows past, or through in this case, and the engine interprets that information. My MAF had a film built up on it which in effect insulated the MAF screen and caused errors.

Hmm, so how does it work when people cut out the screen (or use the outrageously overpriced Granatelli MAFs)?

What did the film look like? I can pull my K&N off pretty easily and peek in at the screen.

_dennis
 

GMCYukalade

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- When you cut-out the screen (which is not part of how the MAF works just protects the resistors right behind the screen) you get a little bit more air-flow.. nothing major - There are some very small elements right behind the screen and they are what detects the amount of air - not the tempature - just the amount - the IAT (the little plug before the MAF) detects the tempature of the air - MAF cleaner is designed not only for those small elements - but if you very carefully take apart the maf (the small screws on the black housing) you can also clean the internals as well as the screen and the elements - and that can fix alot of things a dirty MAF always leads to problems
 

rsashea

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Missfire?

96-99 5.7 vortec engines had a sticky exhaust valve problem creating the symptons you described. If you still experiance the problem you might want to look min this direction. Ron
 

treepete

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I agree with yukalade on this MAF cleaning. its super easy to do. Although I havent gutted mine, I have cleaned it and you can tell the difference easily afterwards. use specific MAF cleaner and a qtip or pipe cleaner to gently go over the fine parts. if your scared to do this just spray it best you can.
that screen stops chunks of stuff that might hurt the elements. and maybe it "aligns" the air for accurate readings, but im not sure if that works really.. if you take your MAF out and clean it, even if this isnt the real problem, its a great thing to do anyway.
 

bad98sport

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did you check the fuel pressure regulator? my truck did the samet hing under load. it was even worst at full throttle.
 
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