Lookin at a 95 Yukon GT. Few Probs

[99black2dr]

I am looking at buying a 95 yukon gt, it has 177k the guy says it burns about a qt of oil every 2k miles. has 285/75/16s. this truck would be a daily driver and town a 14ft trailer. do u guys think it would have any probs doin that? engine seemed to be very strong tho.

1. When i put it in 4low it kinda grinded and was a lil hard to get in, and once in, it would only go about 10 mph and engine was at about 3k and would not shift. is that normal? 4hi seemed to go in easily and work good.

2. both interior door handles were broken. can only open from outside. is it just a broken handle or could it be more?

3. A/C blew cold but would only blow thru lower vents. what would cause that?

4. driver side seat wabbled back and forth on left side. I looked under and it seemed to b broken from the frame. any way to fix it?

5. aftermarket sunroof did not work. could hear the motor running but glass did not move. could it have come off the track?

black exterior was very clean and interior was ok with small tears in both leather seats. needs about $200 in back reg. what do u guys think it is worth in this condition?

 

[crazyhoe]

how much?

 

[99black2dr]

$2,000 OBO. good deal? what should i offer him? any insight on the problems?

 

[crazyhoe]

well, with 177,000 miles on it, the oil leak has to be the rear main seal which will cost you around 500 to 600.00 to fix. the tranny sounds like its on the way out.its not normal not to move on lo gear,tranny 2,500 rebuit thats not including the sunroof and other things that are going to happen. if you going to make a project with it and spend a whole lot of money,1,500 is okay, but if your tight on the pocket and was looking for a good deal forget about it!! it sounds like a lemon to me. good luck!

 

[jadimon]

You are definitely in for uncertain times ahead if you buy that truck.

Here is a list of the things I can remember that gave out on mine at around that mileage:

Brakes
rotors
egr valve
idle air control
cat and muffler
light bulbs behind instrumentation (Speedometer)
air conditioning compressor
inside door handle on passenger side
blower motor
blower motor resistor
climate control circuit board
headlight bulbs
serpentine belt
fuel pump
starter
plugs
wires
cap, rotor
battery
all windshield wipers
ignition switch (That alone cost me a few hundred b/c of a tow involved)

I'm not going to get into braking down each individual cost, but you get the idea. All of it didn't happen at once and I did most of the labor.

You can expect it to be a project vehicle. If that's okay then I think you will really enjoy it. The way I look at it is that I do most of the repairs myself and it beats a monthly payment side-by-side.

I'd offer about $1,200 and go up to maybe $1,800 if it were me. Your buying a bunch of problems with no warranty that gets about 12 miles to the gallon. The guy selling it knows what's up.

On the plus side, I have been quoted 3 grand to have a factory motor put in mine. Parts and labor. If the main seal needs replacing, I would just go that rout if possible.

Another tip is to set up an account on-line with Advance Auto Parts. There may be other good sites, but this one is awesome user friendly and gives you prices, ect. You'll really like it.

While I'm on a roll here. Get the Haynes repair manual over the Chiltons one. I have both and the Haynes is way better. Pictures instead of drawings. Better diagrams and explanations.

Anyway, good luck!

James