instrument cluster dead help

[william1]

I have a 2001 chevy tahoe and my instrument cluster just died while driving. 130k so speedometer, odometer, all gauges.

Checked all connections on the wiring harness all tight. I also checked the grounds and positive wire on the harness all is good. checked the ground under the hood and its fine.

The only light that works is the check ingine light, turn signals. when I turn the key into the first position the odometer lights up until I put it into the next position to start the truck. The truck starts I can jiggle the key ring area and no issues with the cluster. I replaced the cluster and still dead. I think its the BCM but Im not sure.

Every once in a while the radio clock will reset back to noon. And the abs light has come on and gone off pereodicly. now just the check ingine light stays on. I know I need a fuel pump sensor but thats been bad for over a yr with no problems. Also the security light is on very often . Please can anyone help

I am thinking about getting a new BCM let me know.

 

[rockenthebowtie]

Look around the park brake ratcheting mechanism and to to see if and circuits maybe shortng outh ther, if ok i would suspect the ignition switch bcm is not the power mode module for that year its still the ignition switch

 

[william1]

I will take a look in a bit.

 

[william1]

so I just finished installing a new ignition switch and the truck starts like normal but I have no instrument cluster yet but the check engine light went off so I'm not sure what to do next.

 

[william1]

I don't know if the instrument cluster just isn't working because the ignition switch might need to be programmed I am Not sure or if they come programmed already.

 

[rockenthebowtie]

No don't need to be programmed let me research it now there is about 2 or 3 power circuits that go to that connector for the IPC did you check all two or three of them I'm going to have to pull up a schematic I'll get back to you though you did check the harness that goes around the parking brake mechanism or ratchet mechanism for any shorts?

 

[william1]

No I didn't know. Hiw and where are they.

 

[rockenthebowtie]

schematic

Here you go hope this will help

 

[rockenthebowtie]

Oh yea one other thing your going to want to use a 12 volt test light when testing for voltage because that loads the circuit using a volt meter doesn't I would start at the fuses firts that are shown in the diagram with the test light

 

[william1]

ok a little updates I switched the ignition switch to a new one the check engine light went out the instrument cluster still is not working. I took my truck back to have it tested for codes. something funny happened when they plugged the tester into my truck all of my cluster lit right up. when they took the tester off the clusters went dead. so he believes I have a fuse that needs to be replaced because its drawing power from the cluster. he said its a 15 amp fuse in my passenger sidecompartment. but I have no idea where its located.

 

[rockenthebowtie]

Didnt you get the schematic I sent you it tells you all 4 fuses that power it up, the fuse block is on the driver side of ip open drivers door and you will see a somewhat of a triangular panel that say fuses grab from the bottom and it pulls right out on the flip side of the panel it gives you fuse location and size look up the fuses that are on the schematic I sent you

 

[william1]

Okay rockenthebowtie I have checked all fuses for power and correct size amp. Everything looks up to par I used my test light and they all seem to be good. The only time the IP comes on is when they plug the code reader in, and then goes off when they unplug it.

 

[rockenthebowtie]

Ok did you also check power with test light at the ipc connector on all circuits in accordance to the schematic, Disconnect the connector from IPC test A4 BROWN WIRE, A10 PINK WIRE, B6 PINK WIRE, A9 ORANGE WIRE, Then also check with test light clipped to a positive/12 volt power source and probe terminal A8 which is ground, it would also be best to probe the back of the IPC connector where you can get a better veiw of the terminals and not the side of the connector that actually goes into the IPC itself or if this better describes what im trying to say is where the wires go into the ipc connector itself that way the terminals don't get damaged from poking them with the test light,

 

[william1]

I checked the wires from the plug. Both power and ground sides of it like you explained. Still everything seems fine. Its a struggle this week I tell ya. I dont think its a ground wire issue since it has never came back on since it went out. Except when we plugged in for codes.

 

[rockenthebowtie]

Let me ask you this do you have an aftermarket alarm, radio or any other type accessories on it

 

[william1]

LOL I do not. Just all the normal.

 

[rockenthebowtie]

Hmm well Im at a loss on this one, I will need to do some research on this one, I'm starting to think there may be a class2serial data circuit issue

 

[william1]

I really dont know myself. Ill just leave the code reader plugged in lol. Then it will work all day. Please if anyone can help out chime in.

 

[rockenthebowtie]

What modules is your code reader able to codes on just the pcm or any others, and does it have any u codes that it maybe picking up on

 

[rockenthebowtie]

Im pretty certain that something isnt getting checked, or checked properly, and or its a class 2 serial data circuit issue.. I'm probably the best help your going to get on here, as you can see no one else is chiming in