How I Resolved My P030 w/Rough idle Problem - '03 Yukon

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grateful

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2003 Yukon, 5.3 Flex Fuel w/124K miles. SES light on, P0303 w/rough idle. Previous repairs and PM history:
  • Replaced intake manifold gaskets @ approx 85K miles in 2008
  • Replaced OEM spark plugs @ 92K miles 2009 (just because I thought it was time, no problems noted). Installed Bosch Platinum Plus HR9LPX gapped to .060, as instructed in my Haynes manual
  • Clean TB w/Deep Creep every 5K miles w/every oil change
  • Clean MAF sensor w/CRC every 5K miles w/every oil change
  • SeaFoam in gas tank Jan 2011
Individual troubleshooting efforts for this current problem included:

  • LucasOil Deep Clean fuel system cleaner two weeks ago – no good
  • Pulled & inspected #3 sparkplug. Buffed it up enough though not needing it (sandy colored). Checked gap.
  • Swapped coil & wire from #3 to #5, still P0303 afterwards – no change
  • Big blue spark on #3 COP using spare plug as indicator
  • Using stethoscope, #3 injector clicks when connected, quits when unplugged – injector works
  • Replaced the OEM fuel filter two days ago – no change
OMG - this sucked. Could not get the quick connect side to release. Wrestled w/this for an hour in that cramped up space, torsion bar, etc all in the way. Had a tool from AutoZone, apparently not the correct one. The OEM filter had a bung on the outlet side that would not let my removal tool insert correctly. After searching and searching, I finally found the best tip – REMOVE THE 12” FLEXIBLE FUEL LINE FROM THE DOWNSTREAM FUEL BLOCK FIRST, then proceed! My tool was able to easily disconnect the flex line from the fuel block. Then I then took the flex line with the filter still attached into my shop, where I hacksawed the filter and bung off, leaving just the same diameter outlet tube still attached to the 12” flex line (position the assembly so the flex line is above and the filter below when you do this, to keep the filings out of the flex line. Then my removal tool cold easily remove the 1.5” remaining fitting from the flex line. SUCCESS! I installed the new filter onto the flex line, then reinstalled the assembly onto the truck. What a PITA…

Unfortunately, this did not help! :shocked:

Then with engine running, I used an old piece of quarter-round baseboard molding gently up against each injector. I could easily hear a difference with them plugged in, and then unplugged – injectors all working. Then I unplugged each coil input – the idle would get worse each time… this eliminated the coils as the problem. All this time, I never considered the spark plugs, since I had just changed them less than two years/30K miles ago and they ”provide 25% longer service life than original Bosch Platinums (100K promised)”

I thought there may possibly be a bad connection with the spark plug wires, so I removed each wire from both the coil and the plug to inspect. Found #6 would not remove from the plug end – corroded so bad it welded itself to the plug. Had to break the wire, then all the guts from wire were still attached to the plug. Had to use pliers to twist and remove as much debris just to get the spark plug socket to fit over the plug. Thought I was onto something, even though this was on #6, instead of #3. Cleaned up the plug with a Dremel, installed set of Bosch wires (which seem good quality)…and… no improvement…

Finally, I replaced two sparkplugs, #6 and #3, with AC Delco 41-110. Lo and behold, idle smoothed out, SES light went out by itself after driving ¼ mile. Turns out the problem was the spark plugs; they just took a dump after only 30K miles. Changing remainder of plugs to AC Delco’s today. Just wanted to share, hope this helps someone.

Edit: The take-away is that never rule anything out. I had ruled out that the problem could be my recently-replaced, fancy sparkplugs that I thought would last 100K+ miles, but they turned out to be the problem...
 
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jplinville

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As soon as you said you installed platinum plugs, I knew it had to be that. I've had nothing but bad luck with them over the years. I've learned to replace with what the manufacturer suggests, as long as the heads and cam are stock. Platinums are designed for those engines with higher compression ratings and work better with higher octane fuels.
 
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