Help on Automatic Door Locks

[stallion45]

I have a 1995 Tahoe and the automatic locks have stopped working. I have deduced the cause of the problem some what. The top breaker on the fuse box on the side of the driverside dash is overheating causing the breaker to stop working. I can pull the breaker let it cool for a while and put it back in the fusebox and the locks work. Then over some amount of time, without even using the locks the breaker overheats and the locks stop working. To me it seems that some how there is too much current passing through the breaker causing the malfunction. I just don't know how to fix it. Please help.

 

[treepete]

well.. it sounds like a bare wire is contacting ground somewhere in that system.
I guess I would try the door that gets the most usage, remove the control panel from it and look there for starters.
What label is on that fuse? accessories? is it only affecting the locks?

95TwinTT knows every wire on that year. he may be able to help. You'll need a multi-meter. and you have to look for the source of the current loss.. sorry couldnt be more helpful.

 

[95yukongt]

i have same problem but in my 95 yukon and the back window switch doesnt work to pop it open.

 

[stallion45]

OK to be more specific the breaker that is overheating is Fuse A on the fuse map on the back of the cover of the fuse jucntion on the side of the dash. Its a 30 amp fuse number 5038D and is 14.5 volt. I am going to take apart the control panel for the locks and see if I can find a short. Thanks for your help.

 

[95TwinTT]

OK to be more specific the breaker that is overheating is Fuse A on the fuse map on the back of the cover of the fuse jucntion on the side of the dash. Its a 30 amp fuse number 5038D and is 14.5 volt. I am going to take apart the control panel for the locks and see if I can find a short. Thanks for your help.

You might want to check the relay first before you go to far. I would guess it would be under the drivers side of the dash. It has six wires going into it. The wire colors are org, tan, wht, lt.blu, gry, & blk. The org wire is the power from the breaker that keeps heating up.

After you unplug that relay, check resistance to ground on the white and lt.blu. They should be open. Tan and gry should have the same resistance to ground. On the relay itself, check continuity of org and everything else, they should all be open. If not, the relay is fried.

Let us know what you find..............

 

[treepete]

awesome.

 

[qlc1964]

could be that the switch is sticking on internally