Going with disc brakes all around....

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tahoeman21

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How difficult is it to convert my rear drums to disc brakes? What kits should i look for?
 

96ProCompTahoe

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theres a few kits out there that convert the rear end so you can put caddy (IIRC) calipers and rotors on it.

i lost all the links when the computer crashed, hopefully one of the other guys will chime in, been wanting to do this to mine as well.


Its not real difficult if you know how to get your hands dirty, and do simple brake work.
 

JP422

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I have the SSBC drum/disc conversions... and they work well... I had the Stillen Brake Pro conversion first.. and I like the SSBC better. If anyone wants to buy my Stillen disc kit (rear), I'll sell it hella cheap.
 

96ProCompTahoe

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JP422 you have a message about that brake kit. im def. interested in it if its still in good shape.
 

treepete

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yeah that is expensive. But with all the color options and stuff, it would be a totally bad-as$ upgrade.
heres what my year model goes for 1220$ ( and as long as your spending, get the slotted and colored matched stuff...)
 

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loulblades

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I have the SSBC drum/disc conversions... and they work well... I had the Stillen Brake Pro conversion first.. and I like the SSBC better. If anyone wants to buy my Stillen disc kit (rear), I'll sell it hella cheap.

I am planning to convert my rear drums to disc and have been researching it for some time. From what I have researched, I have seen that to get the most effect out of rear disc conversion the pressure bias should be changed. The rear drum setup provides more bias to the front than a full disc setup does.

Did you do anything to change the bias? Since my anti-lock doesn't work anyway (bad wheel sensor) I yanked out the EBCM and replaced it with an adjustable proportioning valve so I can set my own bias, not to mention it gives me more room for my electrical stuff.
 

treepete

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I remember hearing form old mechanic dude, that most of the braking ( like 60%) when you stop is being done by the front wheels. Is that true, when you have rear drums? I mean, if you switch to rear calipers and rotors, this bias adjustment helps over all? but how?
 

96ProCompTahoe

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i may be completely off, but you have to change it so the rear brakes do more of the percentage when you swap out the rear drums for disc brakes.
 

loulblades

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i may be completely off, but you have to change it so the rear brakes do more of the percentage when you swap out the rear drums for disc brakes.

That is the case but it still should be somewhat biased toward the front so the rear doesn't lockup during a heavy brake action before the front, due to weight transfer. During a towing and/or loaded situation a little more bias on the rear might work better.

I don't know if the programming can be changed on the EBCM to accomplish that. Maybe the Tahoes that have the Tow selector on it do that since I just read (while I was typing) that changing the bias could be done through the PCM.
 

JP422

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It does help to get more pressure to the rear calipers... from what I heard (from brake professionals)... is drums are fine w/ 500-900 psi... and calipers work best w/ 900-1400 psi (depending on make and model of course). A brake proportioning valve is a great item to have... as well has a brake pressure gauge. Currently, my setup is using SSBS's "firm feel" master cylinder. I'm using steel braided lines everywhere (no rubber lines for me =) ) and dot 4 fluid, which definitely gives a very firm pedal feel... but my brake bias does feela bit off. SSBC's instructions state to revers the hard lines that go into the master cylinder (front vs rear). This didn't make sense to me, but seemed like a way to get more psi to the rear calipers... but I have big Brembo calipers up front too, so this didn't help. Now I feel like my brake bias is too strong in the rear. It is still driveable, but it doesn't stop like it should w/ normal brake pressure... but don't get me wrong, it definitely has the hardware to stop it in a hurry if I need to... I just have to mash the brake pedal =(. I heard that most cars use 75% front brakes and the rest in the rear... but I'm sure RWD vehicles can use a bit more rear bias (like 60% as Treepete mentioned).

I called up SSBC about this. Last yr, they didn't know much about this situation... and I emailed them recently, and got a reply saying that my Denali "might" have an ABS system that already "reverses" (huh?) the lines, so I shouldnt have to reverse the hard lines going to the MC, as the original instructions state. Whatever the case is, it makes more sense to plumb the lines back to normal... and I'm expecting (or hoping) for a huge brake improvement from this. I've been meaning to do this for the last few weeks, but I can't seem to make time (my boy (6 month old) is keeping my pretty busy). Anyway, I hope to do this within the next few weeks, and I'll post the results after if you guys are interested. If that doesn't work either, I'm gonna look into MC's from newer GM trucks (factory disc brake setups)... does anyone know if they will bolt on directly?... and last resort will be a brake bias valve.
 

loulblades

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..... If that doesn't work either, I'm gonna look into MC's from newer GM trucks (factory disc brake setups)... does anyone know if they will bolt on directly?... and last resort will be a brake bias valve.

Does the MC in the newer vehicles include the proportioning valve? The '96 Tahoe valve is part of the EBCM as far as I am aware. I guess what I am saying is if you are looking to increase rear bias, changing the MC won't do it.

Now if you were able to take the EBCM from an all disc vehicle, that might do it. Also you might want to check into the programming approach.
 

JP422

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Wow.. interesting. I never knew these trucks had electronic brake proportioning (is this right?). How can the EBCM be re programmed? Anyone try this?
 

loulblades

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I have read some info that the dealers equipment can be used to change parameters on the EBCM. I have also seen several TSBs the mention reprogramming.
 
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