It does help to get more pressure to the rear calipers... from what I heard (from brake professionals)... is drums are fine w/ 500-900 psi... and calipers work best w/ 900-1400 psi (depending on make and model of course). A brake proportioning valve is a great item to have... as well has a brake pressure gauge. Currently, my setup is using SSBS's "firm feel" master cylinder. I'm using steel braided lines everywhere (no rubber lines for me =) ) and dot 4 fluid, which definitely gives a very firm pedal feel... but my brake bias does feela bit off. SSBC's instructions state to revers the hard lines that go into the master cylinder (front vs rear). This didn't make sense to me, but seemed like a way to get more psi to the rear calipers... but I have big Brembo calipers up front too, so this didn't help. Now I feel like my brake bias is too strong in the rear. It is still driveable, but it doesn't stop like it should w/ normal brake pressure... but don't get me wrong, it definitely has the hardware to stop it in a hurry if I need to... I just have to mash the brake pedal =(. I heard that most cars use 75% front brakes and the rest in the rear... but I'm sure RWD vehicles can use a bit more rear bias (like 60% as Treepete mentioned).
I called up SSBC about this. Last yr, they didn't know much about this situation... and I emailed them recently, and got a reply saying that my Denali "might" have an ABS system that already "reverses" (huh?) the lines, so I shouldnt have to reverse the hard lines going to the MC, as the original instructions state. Whatever the case is, it makes more sense to plumb the lines back to normal... and I'm expecting (or hoping) for a huge brake improvement from this. I've been meaning to do this for the last few weeks, but I can't seem to make time (my boy (6 month old) is keeping my pretty busy). Anyway, I hope to do this within the next few weeks, and I'll post the results after if you guys are interested. If that doesn't work either, I'm gonna look into MC's from newer GM trucks (factory disc brake setups)... does anyone know if they will bolt on directly?... and last resort will be a brake bias valve.