Big 3 Help

[MikeCallery]

I wrote down the cabling info on what to what, but remember reading something about the type of cable being important and what to use.

I cannot, however, via the search, find the thread.

Can someone offer some guidance. My objective here is not stereo oriented, but simply to improve the ability of my system to charge the battery and provide the best electrical flow.

 

[thekl0wn]

Easiest/cheapest solution is to measure each run, and figure what type of end it needs, and then go to a local welding supply shop, and have them cut welding lead to length and have them crimp then ends on. On my last truck, they even put on the heatshrink, which was some industrial chit! You might call around first, because (around here) not all shops carry 1/0 leads. You can get away with 2/0 or 4/0, but 1/0 is gonna be about the max you'd ever need.

 

[MikeCallery]

Thanks for the info, but if I can't go to my local Home Depot and find the wire, or an auto store, I think I might pass on this. I'm definitely a DIY kind of person so going to a welding shop is something I'd pass on.

 

[thekl0wn]

You're not gonna have the means to crimp large gauge couplings, unless you drop well over $100 on a crimper. Homo Depot/Lowes don't carry high-count wiring, nor wiring made for hi-temp applications. Possibly a NAPA or auto store that leans towards serving mechanics might carry the wire, but other than an electric supply house or welding shop, you're stuck going to either an audio shop or ordering from someplace like knukonceptz.com.

 

[MikeCallery]

Considering I obtained 1/0 from Home Depot and ran it about 12 foot from my battery back under the passager seat to run a 1000 watt inverter, I'm sure that I can handle the connections. In this case, I'm going what, 18 inches maybe? Battery to Alt, Bat neg to chassis, eng to chassis. I figure 6 ft of wire should handle it, just wasn't sure the gauge to work with. 1/0 is a bear though, just doesn't bend to easily!

 

[thekl0wn]

Lol... That's why I suggested welding lead... It's high-strand count, and therefore flexible. Home/Commercial wiring is fine in the applications they were developed for, but they aren't too much fun in the auto world, because of your stated reason... It's just not flexible enough. Also, in terms of the use of the wire the high-count is much more desired. Will the low-count work? Yes, of course, but it's a PITA to work with... Plus HD's pricing is out of sight... I can buy about 50' of wire from the local electrical supply house versus about 8-10' from Homo Depot/Blowes...

 

[JKmotorsports]

It's better to use cable made for automotive use. A good cable will have a heat and oil resistant silicon outer jacket. Look for an OFC (oxygen-free cable). This will keep the copper from corroding and turning green over time and keep it from building up resistance from the corrosion.
Stop by your local custom car stereo shop. They'll more than likely have good ofc cable and will crimp on/solder the connectors for you.
Wire type and construction makes a difference. And soldering the connections is far more superior than crimping, especially in high current circuits.

 

[MikeCallery]

Thanks for the advice on that. We have a boat load of automotive audio shops in the area so I think I'll do some measurements and then will seek out a shop and have them do this and crimp them. I'll go back home and solder.

Thanks for the advice!

By the way, what, if any effect, do you think you have with the RAM air on your CAI? The Flowmaster has a ramair that goes down to the tow hook location and though I have towing connections there, I think I could still take it, modify it and use it, and I'm toying with it, or just might fabricate my own out of PVC since I have to modify their's anyway.

 

[boostaholic]

http://www.tahoeforum.com/showthread.php?t=4019

 

[JKmotorsports]

...Thanks for the advice!
By the way, what, if any effect, do you think you have with the RAM air on your CAI?...

No problem. On the ram-air I fabbed' up, I noticed slightly better response on the hwy and it seems to pick up slightly better, but only at speed, of course. After having it on for a couple months, I removed it just to see if I could feel a difference, and sure enough, it felt a bit more sluggish on the hwy without it.

 

[MikeCallery]

Boost:

Thanks for the link! I went over and read your work and hoped on the site and ordered their products.

I'm not doing any hi-end av work, but simply am working for improving the battery and charging system and this will most certainly help.