99 Tahoe fuel pump

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gator32

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99 Tahoe. Have had starting problems for several weeks. Engine would start cold, then after several start and stops, would not start. Engine would crank -but not start. After I let it sit for 45 min-to an hour, it would start right up. I suspected a fuel regulator. (fuel pump had been replaced 4 or 5 years ago). Repair shop tested fuel pressures etc. and all checked out fine. Brought Tahoe home, it sat several days and problem re-appears-would crank but not start -when it dawns on me, that I did not hear fuel pump engage as soon as I turned key to start. After trying several times, and then finally hearing fuel pump turn on - the engine started right up. Again today, the same problem except this time, until I heard fuel pump finally start up, I didn't try to start engine

My question, is this a short or wiring harness issue? I also notice my fuel gauge jumps all around when I first turn ignition on. it settles down when engine starts and looks perfectly normal?
 

lesterl

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Check your grounds and I would test for 12v at pump when key gets kicked on. Might also check fuel pump relay, had a buddy that almost replaced a fuel pump due to a bad relay......
 

Slammed

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Fuel pump relay is it under hood drivers side?
 

gator32

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Check your grounds and I would test for 12v at pump when key gets kicked on. Might also check fuel pump relay, had a buddy that almost replaced a fuel pump due to a bad relay......

Great ideas, and I will check them out...

Many thanks!
 

lesterl

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Fuel pump relay should be in underhood fuse and relay center. You can pull the relay and jump the terminals that close to turn the pump on also to bypass the PCM/ Relay....
 

gator32

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Could the batery influence eratic fuel pump behavior? Although the battery passs load test, I have less trouble with fuel pump engaging off a fresh battery charge?
 

lesterl

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Weak battery can cause a Weak pump to prime to a lower pressure that would cause hard starting or if the bearings were going out could cause hard spinning of the pump.
 

gary350

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It is very common for the fuel pump to go bad between 100K and 130K miles. Drive it until fuel gauge says Empty there is still 5 gallons of fuel in the tank. Drive it another 100 miles until the engine quits the tank will be almost empty and light weight enough you can remove the fuel tank yourself at home. I checked prices OReily has the best price on a new fuel pump $380. You can buy a fuel pump on Ebay $125. Be sure to remove your fuel pump before you buy a new one there are 3 models that could be in the tank you need to look see what you have.

I am assuming your getting 20 mpg in town like I am with my 1997 GMC Yukon and my 1999 Chevy Tahoe.
 

lesterl

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There is a model code on the top of the unit you do need to get like gary said. You may be able to crawl in wheel well drivers rear and with a mirror see it.

I dropped my tank 1/2 full in my garage with a transmission jack, it was not fun BIG A$$ tank....

I picked up an OEM pump from Amazon.com with 2day free prime shipping for around a $100, but my module was for a TBI application and the CSFI application pumps are a little higher......

Good luck, let us know how it goes.
 

Topdeadcenter

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Check the cluster lights if they are not on when you turn the key to on, its a ign switch had the same problem, mo fo just died on me and I was convinced that the fuel pump was bad I replaced it and to my surprise it didn't fix it turned out to be the ign switch
 
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