'97 Yukon Blower Motor Burnt Plug

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R.Kell628

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Over the winter, the blower for the heater/ac quit working. It would come back on every once in a while and sometimes even over bumps it would turn on for a second. It has been completely off for a while now. When it goes out, all speed settings don't work. I just replaced the switch relay and that didn't help. Doesn't sound like the resistor, probably could be though? The plug going into the blower motor is very burnt so in assuming this is the issue. Could it be the blower motor is shorting out and burning the plug? How do I replace this plug? Will I have to just cut it off and solder a new end on?
 

R.Kell628

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So I ended up soldering the wire directly to the plug. Still not working. I'm thinking the switch itself in the dash might be the issue. There is no click on the relay so that means there's no power getting to it right?

Like I said, even the high speed setting isn't working but I pulled the resistor anyway and none of the contacts looked burned but I'll probably still replace it just to rule it out.

Any suggestions?
 

lesterl

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Look at the fuse holder if you don't have power to the high speed relay socket (above blower housing) You can jump across it IIRC and it should fire up, do you have a testlight or a meter? How does the ground wire look on the fan motor?

Oh, and if you are going to be doing any wiring (or at least just want to have them) some cheap options are a crimper kit with terminals, can be had from a tool store discount bin for under $10, and a cheap meter for testing, same idea discount bin for under $10......
 

R.Kell628

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Look at the fuse holder if you don't have power to the high speed relay socket (above blower housing) You can jump across it IIRC and it should fire up, do you have a testlight or a meter? How does the ground wire look on the fan motor?

Oh, and if you are going to be doing any wiring (or at least just want to have them) some cheap options are a crimper kit with terminals, can be had from a tool store discount bin for under $10, and a cheap meter for testing, same idea discount bin for under $10......

What fuse holder? What do you mean by jump across it? I do hae a meter but I left a door cracked open after I was working on it and killed the battery.
 

lesterl

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The fuse block will contain a bunch of fuses that protect circuits by opening up. There should be 2 fuse blocks, one under the hood, and one in the end of the dash.

The relay is a switch, nothing more complicated than that, if it is bad you can follow the diagram on the relay to imitate its function.

Charge the battery.
 

R.Kell628

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The fuse block will contain a bunch of fuses that protect circuits by opening up. There should be 2 fuse blocks, one under the hood, and one in the end of the dash.

The relay is a switch, nothing more complicated than that, if it is bad you can follow the diagram on the relay to imitate its function.

Charge the battery.
Is there a fuse or relay for the blower in the normal fuse boxes? The relay isn't, its behind the glove box. I'm not aware of any others for the blower in the fuse box
 

lesterl

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Should be a fuse for the system, every STOCK electrical component in the truck is protected by a fuse, major exception being the starter....
 

R.Kell628

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I'll check into it again. If it is a fuse, that wouldn't have caused it to go on and off like that though right? It would just be out? Unless whatever was causing it to go on and off caused a fuse to blow.
 

lesterl

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Fuses can blow from being jerked around like that, but you have a loose connection somewhere, I would verify power at relay socket first, if good there, then you eliminated a lot, for that matter, verify power AT the fan where you soldered the wire, if no power there, and fan switch on high, check at relay, if NG there, check at switch, then go to the fuse if all else fails.......
 

R.Kell628

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Got it all fixed up. Ended up being the switch in the dash. Replaced the switch and cut the harness plug and wired it up direct and all is good. Thanks for the help!
 
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