Here's an update on my A/C issue.
I'm home on leave and thought I would try something that I saw on YouTube from a guy that owns an 06 3500.
He said that he had already replaced the Heater door blend actuator and taken it to the dealership twice, and the problem kept coming back. He pulled the fuses that were under the dash (there are 2), and he also pulled the ones under the hood (I think there are 2). He said that he turned the key on but did not start the truck for 15-30 minutes. Then replace the fuses and it should fix the problem.
This sounded a little strange to me, but I thought what the heck- it's worth a shot. So I did it.
My problem went from being an occasional problem to an all the time problem immediately. I thought maybe it WAS the blend door actuator and pulling the fuses caused it to short out permanently instead of just every now and then. So I proceeded to remove it from under the dash on the driver's side (had to remove some trim). I noticed that it was attached to the door that moves the air from bottom to top, vent to defrost, etc. That made me wonder if the actuator actually had anything to do with my problem, so I started the car just to see what would happen.
So with the car started, the heater blend door actuator REMOVED altogether and the air running, I moved the gear by hand which moved the air from the vents to the floor, then to the defrost, etc. So clearly the heater blend door actuator has nothing to do with the problem of hot A/C on the driver's side while passenger side still works. All it does is move where the air goes- not make it hot or cold.
So now I'm worried that I broke my wife's A/C, so I'm kind of freaking out. I keep the A/C running and start to pull the A/C fuses that are under the dash. There is a 30 amp that seemed to do nothing, and a 10 amp which actually controls the door actuator that moves the air around. While I'm doing this the A/C on the passenger side is cold, A/C on driver's side is hot. After removing the fuses one at a time and putting them back in, the A/C on the driver's side starts to blow cold. And this is without restarting the car, which is what usually has to be done.
So, knowing that the 10 amp fuse controls the heater door blend actuator, logic tells me that the 30 amp fuse fixed the issue- at least temporarily. I don't know if this will be a permanent solution, but the A/C works at least as well as it was working before I ever messed with it.
I'll keep updating...