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So I warmed up the engine and pulled the plug, the images above are after removing the plug from the warm engine out of cylinder 4. To me, it seems oily and wet, no buildup (these are new plugs). I also took a video of the cyl 4 spark using one of the inline testers that I picked up...

ok, the cap was ordered off ebay, so based upon my experience there..I would not be surprised at all if it was crap... and its simple enough to change. I still have the new distributor as well, but obviously easier to just replace the cap. I understand what you are saying about debugging...

ok, so just so I understand, if the plug is wet/black, that would indicate the injector is not closed but it still could potentially be stuck open. I can check spark a number of ways on cyl 4. I will keep the plug still in and remove the wire from it and attach it to another plug and...

ok, so the injector attachment for the fuel rail arrived and I used it blow out the injectors through the fuel rail using the pressurized cannister with seafoam. Generally, I had to mix the seafoam with about 1/2 gas to get the car to run. It indicates that on the directions as well on the...

no problem, thanks for the followup. The only thing I have done is rotate the distributor. But I got fed up and brought it in for diagnostics. I gave them a rundown of what I did and found and and let them know the distributor bolt was loose and I had tweeked the idle just a bit. They...

Well, the distributor wrench showed up today. Didnt help. I did locate an angled closed crescent wrench and was finally able to loosen the hold down bolt to the distributor. I tried to slowly rotate the distributor in both directions, but it did not seem to help. I also looked at the...

I ordered a cheap chinese 0-6" vernier which I will use as a TDC dial. Seemed like a really fast, easy way to do it. I did visual inspection of the balancer. I could only sometimes see the scribe in the balancer when engine OFF. Once, I saw the scribe around the 2 o'clock position, but...

ok, so I am getting the impression that timing advance (as shown by torque software) is different than cam retard. And in such case, even if I am able to rotate the distributor, timing advance is not the right parameter to zero out, let alone even check. Is this thinking correct? In such...

Ok, this morning I hooked up an ELM327 Device using wifi and used Torque Lite to check a few things. It was telling me my vacuum was about 21 in Hg, (which was difference from the manual gauge reading, so I will recheck the manual gauge later). But basically, in summary, I have fuel...

Redid compression test with a new gauge and hose, from harbor freight (500 psi hose) no issues with tool. Got 150 psi across all 8 cylinders, nice and uniform. So Im ruling out any sort of compression issue now.

Ok...clearly this must be a tester issue .. I broke down and bought another compression tester this evening and will test tomorrow..I am anticipating high compression all the way around and should be able to rule this aspect out...in such case, pointing towards spark.. but will update...

The reason I didnt pull it was basically inexperience. Ive been watching video talking about top dead center on cyl 1 and aligning the marks on the balancer and also aligning the marks on the distributor, but my concern was screwing it up as Ive never done it before. Today I revisited...

This morning I took off dist cap and checked play in the rotor/billet. There was about a about 5 degree play, all CCW from normal with minimal vertical movement. Based up the threads of the drive gear, i did not think the amount of vertical movement was abnormal. I did buy a new distributor...

Duubt its pump I tend to doubt its pump, as this issue is occurring at idle. Would seem the fuel volume supply requirement is minimal. I still have not checked cap/rotor play yet, tried this morning, but too hot out..maybe this evening

Oh, you can be sure it was the cheapest of the cheap...most likely NOT OEM.

uggh, i typed out a huge reply and the site timed out on me...annoying.. so here is the abridged version: Before issue: probably 6 months ago, I think the fuel pump crapped out..so thats when all the work happened: New fuel pump (not filter, was rusted and we couldnt get it off, but its been...

Update on leak down So in the time since the last post, its has dropped to 30 psi. So thats about 1.25 hours

revisited fuel pressure Hooked up gauge to shraeder valve Key on, 56 psi, waited a few min Key off, climbed to 60 psi Waited 5 minutes, steady at 60 psi, Key back on, 60.5 psi Turned ignition on, dropped to about 54/55 psi at idle Slowly added accelerator all the way to about 5000 rpm...

This mornings adventure Ok, so today I revisited wiring. I had two inline spark detectors which were both utter pieces of total &*%*&%* chinese crap. I started using the first one not knowing I had another. The first one was a hunk of ****, I had to keep crimping it close or it would not...

ok thks, I will remeasure fuel pressure tomorrow and investigate the drive gear.