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Autocare and detailing discussions A forum to discuss tips and sharing info on how to best care for your autos and detailing them



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Old 02-18-2008, 09:43 PM   #11
MadMedwyn
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Yeah I've got some minor swirl marks also. Maybe when spring break rolls around I'll set aside a couple days and not drive in order to clean it up right. We've had a ton of bad weather lately and the ride's not looking so hot.
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMedwyn View Post
Yeah I've got some minor swirl marks also. Maybe when spring break rolls around I'll set aside a couple days and not drive in order to clean it up right. We've had a ton of bad weather lately and the ride's not looking so hot.
Yeah, I try and keep the miles off of my 2004 Tahoe so it stays in the garage at my house in Atlanta most of the time, but it's still not warm there yet. If it were here I'd work on it this weekend, but 50 degrees isn't awesome car detailing weather. I may have to hold off until April on working on her but maybe I'll know a lot about it before I start the process.
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:05 PM   #13
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dirtysouth: The purpose of using a polisher is to get rid of swirl marks. It is nearly impossible to mess up your paint using the porter cable unless you are actually sitting there on the highest speed in one spot. The AIO can be applied by hand, that is fine, just use a microfiber applicator. The polish you would use different pads. If your using an intense polish you'll use a light cutting pad. If your using a light polish you would use the white polishing pad. For the AIO you could use the white polishing pad or a finishing pad, either would work fine.


ugachs: You will still want to claybar the car no matter what. The paint will come out looking and feeling better and the claybar will get all the dirt, overspray, and other contaniments in the paint. You would wash with dawn first then clay after that. Basically the dawn with get some of the wax off and the claybar will take care of the rest. I would love to have 50* weather to work in. Right now its snowing here :nonod:
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Old 02-21-2008, 09:23 AM   #14
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Just to chime in and agree, you can not screw up your paint using the Porter Cable 7424 polisher. It is simply the best machine ever. It is a random orbit style. Autogeek has some videos about how to use it and I think that Poor Boys website does as well. I have owned one for about two years. Just bought the Tahoe last Saturday so as of yet havenít used it on there (been raining). Once you cough up the initial cost you will want to cut and buff your vehicles all the time.
If you have never done this level of detailing to your paint spend some time on the sites listed above. The techniques they will show you make it easy and take away the fear that you will damage your paint.
After I clay a vehicle for the first time I will also use a light cutting/leveling product before sealing and waxing. This further insures that the vehicle will be slicker than you can possibly imagine. These are low to medium abrasives that contain now wax or silicon products. My personal preferences are the SSR1 and SSR2 from Poor Boys.
Iíve talked to so many people that are hesitant to do this but seriously if you can wash your own truck than you can do this. Itís a combination of technique, tools, and patience.

Jon
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Old 02-21-2008, 08:36 PM   #15
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See what you did, I'm gonna have to order me a detailin kit, hahahaha. What do you think of this as a little starter kit?

http://www.autogeek.net/ultimate-det...e-pro-kit.html

or

http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable...cessories.html

or

http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html

Last edited by tast101; 02-21-2008 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 02-22-2008, 04:48 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tast101 View Post
See what you did, I'm gonna have to order me a detailin kit, hahahaha. What do you think of this as a little starter kit?

http://www.autogeek.net/ultimate-det...e-pro-kit.html

or

http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable...cessories.html

or

http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html
:smilielol: haha, well atleast you'll be rollin around in a clean Yuk now! Well they're all really good! But i'd go with the 3rd one...would recommend getting a clay bar, polish, and some wax while your at it from them...you will be simply amazed when you get all this stuff and do your first "REAL" detail...

Oh yeah and if you get on youtube.com there are TONS of videos of people doing instuctional videos on polish, wax, claybars and what not...so may want to check that out as well

Last edited by Trend Setta; 02-22-2008 at 05:00 AM.
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Old 02-22-2008, 09:36 AM   #17
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Actually after buying the Tahoe the next tool I need is a quality step ladder. Being 5í9Ē and owning only mid to small cars before now Iíll need something to reach the roof.

A technical question though: I have used painterís tape (the blue stuff) to mask over the edges of trim in the past to avoid the white residue. I have seen recommendations to spray the trim with tire dressing to prevent this. What do you guys do to avoid getting wax on the roof rack and door trim? I might eventually remove the side trim but for now it stays on.

Another thing that I like to do is use the clay bar on the glass. I actually have a buffing pad from Autogeek that has the recessed pocket for the clay to stay in. This makes it really easy and fast to do large surfaces such as glass, hoods, and roofs. It does not work as well on the vertical surfaces like doors. But on older glass I use the clay bar then hit it with a little stonerís glass cleaner.
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Old 02-22-2008, 04:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Design View Post
Actually after buying the Tahoe the next tool I need is a quality step ladder. Being 5í9Ē and owning only mid to small cars before now Iíll need something to reach the roof.

A technical question though: I have used painterís tape (the blue stuff) to mask over the edges of trim in the past to avoid the white residue. I have seen recommendations to spray the trim with tire dressing to prevent this. What do you guys do to avoid getting wax on the roof rack and door trim? I might eventually remove the side trim but for now it stays on.

Another thing that I like to do is use the clay bar on the glass. I actually have a buffing pad from Autogeek that has the recessed pocket for the clay to stay in. This makes it really easy and fast to do large surfaces such as glass, hoods, and roofs. It does not work as well on the vertical surfaces like doors. But on older glass I use the clay bar then hit it with a little stonerís glass cleaner.
Well...I would tape it off, and do it by hand around the plastics...then buff every thing else...because once that wax hit's the plastic you get to look at some gross white resudue for a while

And I'm not too familiar with the claybar buffer...sorry
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Old 02-22-2008, 08:04 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trend Setta View Post
Well...I would tape it off, and do it by hand around the plastics...then buff every thing else...because once that wax hit's the plastic you get to look at some gross white resudue for a while

And I'm not too familiar with the claybar buffer...sorry
Yea I saw that, wasn't sure about it, I always did it by hand.

http://www.autogeek.net/paintwork-cl...pplicator.html
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Old 02-22-2008, 09:22 PM   #20
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You got me sold, just placed my order on Autogeek.net. Give it a go on my truck, and as I get good my buddy said he'll pay me to do his mazda 6. So soon it'll pay for its self. I ordered the Porter Cable 7424 & Pad Kit. http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html
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